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Routes in Brownie Girl Dome

Brown Sugar T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buster Brown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hole in the Wall T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
James Brown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tige T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Zonker's Brownies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Alan Bartlett & Alan Roberts, January 1988
Page Views: 600 total, 5/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Apr 26, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This climbs the right-most dike on the face to the right of "James Brown". I'm not sure where the actual start is, because there are a few ways to this dike. What seems to be the most direct start is to climb a short corner, with a bush at the base or the blunt arete to the right, then up face passing three horizontal cracks to the base of the dike system. follow this to the top passing one bolt.
Boulders on top can be slung for anchors.

Protection

Pro to 2" or 2.5", I don't remember. A couple of the horizontals are about the same size, so you may want to double up from 1"-2". Bring a 30' sling, if you want to set up a TR.

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.8
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.8
Super cool dike system up high. Didn't find the route overly run-out and took solid gear. Additional protection of flake/shelf system with .75 camalot and long runner before committing upward progress with nice stance to clip bolt.

The neighboring 'Brown Sugar' has convenience bolts which allows for anchoring and possible rapping if you're doing other routes in the area and willing to leave behind some slings. We utilized a 12' rabbit runner which was extended over the lip to reduce wear. Rock is gritty and sheath wrecker, so TR's are not recommended. Nov 29, 2013
Bob Gaines
  5.8- R
Bob Gaines  
  5.8- R
I replaced the bolt with a nice new one in 2007.
The moves up to the bolt are 5.6/7 R.

FA: Alan Bartlett and Alan Roberts, 1988. Oct 19, 2008
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
a really fun as hell route... Nov 4, 2007