Grandmaster Flash
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 8 votes
Type: | Trad, 95 ft (29 m) |
FA: | Tony Sartin and Bob Gaines, January 2023. |
Page Views: | 239 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Bob Gaines on Feb 1, 2023 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
A demanding, well-protected pitch with a great variety of challenges. Begin a few feet right of Brownie Girl, at the steepest, blankest section of the wall.
Thin, steep, sustained edging and crimping (5.11) right off the ground and through the first 3 bolts, then traverse up and left (10+) past 3 more bolts to a rest stance at the base of a groove. The climbing is very continuous past the first 6 bolts.
Step right, then surmount a difficult mantle shelf (5.10), then up easier climbing to a horizontal crack (#.75 Camalot) to a tricky move (5.9) past a short vertical crack protected by a nut (#6 or #7 BD stopper) up to another horizontal crack (#1 Camalot). Move right to the last bolt that protects height-dependent moves (5.10; much harder if you're shorter) over a bulge to a ledge. Finish with overhanging jugs over a bulge (5.7) up to a 2-bolt anchor.
You can lower off with a 60 m rope (barely!), so tie a knot in the end of your rope!
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