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Routes in Pixie Rock

Lascivious Conduct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rhythm of the Heat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Scream Chuck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Silent Scream (aka Shock the Monkey) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silent but Deadly T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Srepopers Roid TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Swift and Silent TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tom's Solo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vaino's Lost in Pot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Who's First T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Elevation: 3,169 ft
GPS: 34.095, -116.156 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Anonymous Climber on Jun 21, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

Pixie Rock is another very popular Indian Cove destination, it seems mostly because it features Silent Scream (aka Shock the Monkey) (10a) an excellent route on it's extremely featured northeast face. There are a few other good routes here as well and the rock's near-road location puts it in the ten-second-approach category. If you're so inclined, there's a nice just east the base of Silent Scream where you can fire a few problems.

Brian Reynolds adds: "[Pixie Rock] is popular -- very popular. The NPS has even built a nice little wooden railing to separate the climber-types from the wildlife. Most of the climbs face southeast and, like most of Indian Cove, they get hot. There is a roundabout walk-off on the back side. Silent but Deadly (5.11b) and Lascivious Conduct (5.11c) look great. There is also a nice trio of short slab climbs right in the middle of the face between Silent Scream and Lascivious Conduct - Who's First (5.6); Vaino's Lost in Pot (5.7 R); and Rhythm of the Heat (5.8 X), all of which are easily toproped with long slings from several randomly-placed bolts on top of the formation."

Getting There

As you enter the Indian Cove Campground, Pixie Rock is on the right (west) side of the road just past the sign marking the road to the group campsites. It faces Billboard Buttress across the road.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pixie Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
Jacob, other than leading the wall, the best and safest way up is around the back side directly behind the climbs you were doing. Going the way you mention could freak a few. Beginners in particular. Had you read the discription given to "walkup" on this very thread, you would have seen where it says, "Walkup on backside of rock". Pay closer attention and be smart so that you will be climbing for many years to come. And as I posted on Joshuatreeclimb.com (A plug?) leave the anchors alone. They are just spinners and have been that way for some time. If they are needing to be tightend, let an experienced person deal with it. Other wise you did good and keep at it. But................quit being in such a damned hurry! YOu are 14 and I think would like to make it to 15? I know you are excited and due to your age and lack of experience it is hard to find partners or people that will let you tag along. But that is just the way it is. Instead of spending money on gear, it would be much smarter to spend it on a climbing class from Uprising, Joshua Tree Climbing School, Vertical Adventures etc... Aug 15, 2004
jacob  
I went up to pixie today, After 45 min I finnaly got up to the top... There are 2 sets of bolts, There is a set of bolts between 2 and 3 on the photo, One of the bolts is missing, and the other needs to be tightend a little bit.. The other set just needs to be tightend a little bit..

It is not the best rock at joshua tree, But it is good for begginers to climb..

The "walk ups" are more of climb ups, so you better where your shoes and chalkbags.. The best way to get up is by "silent scream" to the left of it.. Be very very carefull!!! There is a small ledge to stand on and a fall that you might not live through if you take the fall.. There is another way that takes a little longer less dangerous though... and that is on the side off to the left..

For the 5.7 and the 5.6 there is a crack that mid to large hexs and large nuts, and mid to larger cams will fit it, and backed up by a bolt... Aug 14, 2004
Pixie Rock is a great place to spend the morning, afternoon, or whole day. When you need a break from your harness, there is a fun boulder just east (lower right side of the above picture) of "Silent but Deadly". On the West facing side of the boulder there is a hole that fits a curled up man. The goal of the problem is to get into the hole (without jumping) and sit in it all curled up. I call this "The Womb". My friend Woody was the first (at least in our circle of friends) to send this problem, so we now call it "Woody's Womb" and the whole boulder "The Womb". Everytime we climb in the area we usually warm up by crawling into "the Womb". Once you've been in the womb you will always want to go back...On a side note, "Silent Scream" is a great climb, with at least two small variations toward the middle of the climb. There is much fun to be had at Pixie Rock... Mar 30, 2004
I believe that there are three bolts up on the flat section on top of Pixie Rock, but they're placed pretty randomly. They're definitely usable as TR anchors, but you're going to need some long slings/webbing, and probably at least one large piece to use as a directional. Jun 26, 2002

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