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Pixie Rock Rock Climbing
Routes in Pixie Rock
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If Only Rae Had Thumbs TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Lascivious Conduct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Other Werner Braun, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pixie Stick TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rhythm of the Heart T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Scream Chuck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Silent but Deadly T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Silent Scream (aka Shock the Monkey) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Srepopers Roid TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Swift and Silent T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Tom's Solo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Vaino's Lost in Pot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Who's First T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
| Elevation: | 3,169 ft | 966 m |
| GPS: |
34.09453, -116.15627 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 34,946 total · 121/month | |
| Shared By: | Anonymous Climber on Jun 21, 2002 | |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Pixie Rock is another very popular Indian Cove destination, it seems mostly because it features Silent Scream (aka Shock the Monkey) (10a) an excellent route on it's extremely featured northeast face. There are a few other good routes here as well and the rock's near-road location puts it in the ten-second-approach category. If you're so inclined, there's a nice boulder near the base of Silent Scream where you can fire a few problems.
Brian Reynolds adds: "[Pixie Rock] is popular -- very popular. The NPS has even built a nice little wooden railing to separate the climber-types from the wildlife. Most of the climbs face southeast and, like most of Indian Cove, they get hot. There is a roundabout walk-off on the back side.
Silent but Deadly (5.11b) and Lascivious Conduct (5.11c) look great. There is also a nice trio of short slab climbs right in the middle of the face between Silent Scream and Lascivious Conduct - Who's First (5.6); Vaino's Lost in Pot (5.7 R); and Rhythm of the Heart (5.8 X), all of which are easily toproped with long slings from several randomly-placed bolts on top of the formation."
Classic Climbing Routes at Pixie Rock
Sun Angles Details:
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