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Routes in Pixie Rock

Lascivious Conduct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rhythm of the Heat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Scream Chuck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Silent Scream (aka Shock the Monkey) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silent but Deadly T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Srepopers Roid TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Swift and Silent TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tom's Solo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vaino's Lost in Pot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Who's First T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Geoff Archer, Louie Anderson and Dave Stoner, February 1990
Page Views: 1,329 total, 7/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jun 25, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb the vertical to slightly bulging face via edges and sloping holds to a shared anchor with Silent Scream (aka Shock the Monkey). The crux is low and over quickly, after which it's just fun and featured face climbing to the top.

Due to the southern orientation and the sloping nature of some holds it's perhaps best done when cold.

Location

Located on the scooped face just right of Silent Scream (aka Shock the Monkey).

Protection

3 bolts (3/8"), gear to 3" for the anchor
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a
Much easier than Monaco. The Miramontes calls this .11b, but it is much easier than a lot of the other .11b climbs I have been on in the park. Sequential and fun! More of a technical climb than burly. I did this in cooler temperatures, which I'm sure helped... Feb 25, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I did this route in the mid-afternoon, when the rock was hot and greasy. It was no giveaway. I would go so far as to call it 5.11b/c or straight up 5.11c. In any case, the crux was immensely fun and crimpy. A definite "do" route at Pixie Rock. Mar 15, 2009