Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Geoff Archer, Louie Anderson and Dave Stoner, February 1990
Page Views: 1,439 total · 7/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jun 25, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


16 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb the vertical to slightly bulging face via edges and sloping holds to a shared anchor with Silent Scream (aka Shock the Monkey). The crux is low and over quickly, after which it's just fun and featured face climbing to the top.

Due to the southern orientation and the sloping nature of some holds it's perhaps best done when cold.

Location

Located on the scooped face just right of Silent Scream (aka Shock the Monkey).

Protection

3 bolts (3/8"), gear to 3" for the anchor

Photos

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I did this route in the mid-afternoon, when the rock was hot and greasy. It was no giveaway. I would go so far as to call it 5.11b/c or straight up 5.11c. In any case, the crux was immensely fun and crimpy. A definite "do" route at Pixie Rock. Mar 15, 2009
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a
Much easier than Monaco. The Miramontes calls this .11b, but it is much easier than a lot of the other .11b climbs I have been on in the park. Sequential and fun! More of a technical climb than burly. I did this in cooler temperatures, which I'm sure helped... Feb 25, 2013