PRINT: Rock Climbing in Pixie Rock, Joshua Tree National Park

Pixie Rock

California > Joshua Tree NP > Indian Cove > Indian Cove Cam… > Indian Cove CG West

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Pixie Rock is another very popular Indian Cove destination, it seems mostly because it features Silent Scream (aka Shock the Monkey) (10a) an excellent route on it's extremely featured northeast face. There are a few other good routes here as well and the rock's near-road location puts it in the ten-second-approach category. If you're so inclined, there's a nice boulder near the base of Silent Scream where you can fire a few problems.

Brian Reynolds adds: "[Pixie Rock] is popular -- very popular. The NPS has even built a nice little wooden railing to separate the climber-types from the wildlife. Most of the climbs face southeast and, like most of Indian Cove, they get hot. There is a roundabout walk-off on the back side.

Silent but Deadly (5.11b) and Lascivious Conduct (5.11c) look great. There is also a nice trio of short slab climbs right in the middle of the face between Silent Scream and Lascivious Conduct - Who's First (5.6); Vaino's Lost in Pot (5.7 R); and Rhythm of the Heart (5.8 X), all of which are easily toproped with long slings from several randomly-placed bolts on top of the formation."

Getting There

As you enter the Indian Cove Campground, Pixie Rock is on the right (west) side of the road just past the sign marking the road to the group campsites. It faces Billboard Buttress across the road.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 9 ● Lascivious Conduct Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R 3 ● Scream Chuck Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X 40 ● Vaino's Lost in Pot Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R 144 ● Who's First Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R 71 ● Rhythm of the Heart Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X 7 ● If Only Rae Had Thumbs TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 10 ● Swift and Silent Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 126 ● Silent Scream (aka Shock the Mon… Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 25 ● Silent but Deadly Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 2 ● Pixie Stick TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 5 ● Tom's Solo Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 7 ● Srepopers Roid TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 1 ● The Other Werner Braun Trad

● Lascivious Conduct

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad

● Scream Chuck

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad

● Vaino's Lost in Pot

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X Trad

● Who's First

144

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad

● Rhythm of the Heart

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad

● If Only Rae Had Thumbs

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X TR

● Swift and Silent

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR

● Silent Scream (aka Shock th…

126

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad

● Silent but Deadly

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad

● Pixie Stick

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR

● Tom's Solo

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad

● Srepopers Roid

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR

● The Other Werner Braun

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The bomber belay. Photo by Blitzo.

Pixie Rock 12-18-2008.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.

Pixie Rock 12-18-2008. Photo by Blitzo.

Dick Cilley playing at Pixie Rock.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.

Dick Cilley playing at Pixie Rock. Photo by Blitzo.

Chuckwallas are common around Pixie Rock.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.

Chuckwallas are common around Pixie Rock. Photo by Blitzo.

Mike A. having fun bouldering.

Pixie Rock at day's end.

awesome route!

Pixie Rock

A pixie at Pixie Rock.

Pixie Rock, Joshua Tree NP

Of course the information is wrong.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.

Of course the information is wrong. Photo by Blitzo.

A new sign has been installed at Pixie Rock.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.

A new sign has been installed at Pixie Rock. Photo by Blitzo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brian Reynolds

I believe that there are three bolts up on the flat section on top of Pixie Rock, but they're placed pretty randomly. They're definitely usable as TR anchors, but you're going to need some long slings/webbing, and probably at least one large piece to use as a directional. Jun 26, 2002

Rock Sucker

Pixie Rock is a great place to spend the morning, afternoon, or whole day. When you need a break from your harness, there is a fun boulder just east (lower right side of the above picture) of "Silent but Deadly". On the West facing side of the boulder there is a hole that fits a curled up man. The goal of the problem is to get into the hole (without jumping) and sit in it all curled up. I call this "The Womb". My friend Woody was the first (at least in our circle of friends) to send this problem, so we now call it "Woody's Womb" and the whole boulder "The Womb". Everytime we climb in the area we usually warm up by crawling into "the Womb". Once you've been in the womb you will always want to go back...On a side note, "Silent Scream" is a great climb, with at least two small variations toward the middle of the climb. There is much fun to be had at Pixie Rock... Mar 30, 2004

jacob

I went up to pixie today, After 45 min I finnaly got up to the top... There are 2 sets of bolts, There is a set of bolts between 2 and 3 on the photo, One of the bolts is missing, and the other needs to be tightend a little bit.. The other set just needs to be tightend a little bit..

It is not the best rock at joshua tree, But it is good for begginers to climb..

The "walk ups" are more of climb ups, so you better where your shoes and chalkbags.. The best way to get up is by "silent scream" to the left of it.. Be very very carefull!!! There is a small ledge to stand on and a fall that you might not live through if you take the fall.. There is another way that takes a little longer less dangerous though... and that is on the side off to the left..

For the 5.7 and the 5.6 there is a crack that mid to large hexs and large nuts, and mid to larger cams will fit it, and backed up by a bolt... Aug 14, 2004