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Routes in Pixie Rock

Lascivious Conduct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rhythm of the Heat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Scream Chuck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Silent Scream (aka Shock the Monkey) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silent but Deadly T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Srepopers Roid TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Swift and Silent TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tom's Solo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vaino's Lost in Pot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Who's First T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: (TR) Alan Nelson and Mike Beck December 1982, FL: unknown
Page Views: 4,635 total, 25/month
Shared By: Anonymous Climber on Jun 25, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A Josh classic! VERY popular route that draws a big crowd. Silent Scream climbs the bucketed face about thirty feet right of Who's First in the center of the SE face of Pixie Rock. Reach up, pull down. A little tricky move at the top keeps it exciting all the way home. Scramble down off the back and set your anchor. Long slings or a couple of cordalettes can be used to run the anchor up and over the top of the route.

Toproping: You can scramble up the back side of Pixie or up the steep slot to the left of the route to set an anchor at the top. Be very careful either way!

The name Shock The Monkey comes from a Peter Gabriel song of the same name from his 1982 Security release.

Protection

4 bolts (3/8"). Place-your-own anchor. Take a good selection of medium to large cams for the crack in the alcove behind the top of the route.
almost died on this route trying it ground up as a sport route, mislead advice and horrifying experienc it was a long time ago tho and convinced me to get into trad Mar 18, 2016
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
The anchor has gone missing again? Jul 14, 2015
Countzen Shin
Santa Monica, CA
Countzen Shin   Santa Monica, CA
Anyone putting bolts back on this at the top? May 26, 2015
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
The drilled angles atop this route are now gone. Mar 16, 2009
Rick Shull
Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Rick Shull   Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV  
Silent Scream was my first 10a lead back in fall of '86. When I went back two weeks later the top bolt was gone and the base of the route was covered in blood. At that time it was listed in Vogel's guide as "silent scream". the original bolts were 1/4 inchers with square nuts. I used the thread and a couple of pieces, which made for a bomber anchor. Interesting that the bolts were only about 4 years old when the top one ripped. Dec 4, 2006
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10a/b
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10a/b
Did the route today, Oct 29, 2006. There are now on the very top as an anchor. No idea how they got there, but they look pretty solid and are possibly fortified with epoxy? I backed them up anyway with some large cams over the top of the summit and a long extendo runner. YMMV.
Side note: sun and heat is not your friend on this one.... the grease factor is major and the grade can be anywhere from 5.8+ to hard 5.10 depending on the season Oct 29, 2006
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Sure looks a lot easier than it is! Sep 22, 2006
For me, and other shorter folk, clipping the 3rd bolt is a heady move. The good stance puts me about 6" from the bolt, and the previous bolt is well below your feet at that point. A fall from there would likely put you on the slab below the first bolt. Shorter climbers should consider packing a blue alien for the small horzontal just below the 3rd bolt to ease the mind if nothing else. The route is fantastic and otherwise very well protected. Feb 21, 2006
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10a
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10a
this is a cool route! When I take people to it they look at what appread to be tons of "easy holds"... thinking it will go as easy as a ladder many often figure it cannot be in the 10's. Well those beautiful, somewhat sloping holds get's the lot of them... A MUST do when at Indian Cove... Safey protected on lead, tricky to TR but doable... Is TR's make sure and set it up so the climber will not pendulum... Dec 15, 2005
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
A pretty good route for Indian Cove that's super accesible and fun. A medium cam is useful in the horizontal crack just below the last bolt. Nov 11, 2003
An excellent anchor can be created for this climb with a 20' cordellete and approx. 20' of webbing. There's good options up high on the wall behind the climb and off to either side for cams. This reduces the possible pendulumn on your TR. Equalize with cordellete and extend with webbing. Jan 29, 2003
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10a
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10a
A varied climb with good position and moves. I remember the crux as being moving through the start of the bucketed face, a couple of holds there surprised me in their lack of positivity. Top moves are very slabby.I recall watching a group of people top-roping this route using the final bolt as an anchor. I removed 3 slings of different age and condition from this bolt, which suggests that this is not an uncommon practice. If people do TR this climb please remember to go around to the top and set up an anchor. Top-roping from single bolts is not recommended!

Clean, varied technique, slightly artificial.

Sport climbish Jan 9, 2003
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
Long ago, before the bolts were replaced a climber fell at the last bolt, it ripped and he died - perhaps this is why it is now referred to as Silent Scream.

On top of this route if you look there is a slot for a good thread for part of an anchor. Dec 5, 2002
This is a very fun route. A small piece of gear can be used between the last two bolts. I don't know about a recent accident but I recall the rock that you build your anchor in being pretty crufty. Dec 5, 2002
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
There was an accident here recently (early October 2002?) in which the TR anchor apparently failed. All I can assume is that as the climber approached the final 10' or so of the route, s/he moved out right and the anchor shifted accordingly and pulled. Anyone have additional info? Nov 9, 2002