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Routes in South Face - Left Side

Black Harlots Layaway T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Chauvinist, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chingadera T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Heathen, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Innominate, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Ski Track T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Offshoot, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reach, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Right Ski Track T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sling Swing Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unchaste, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: (Pitch 1 & 2) Bob Gaines & Dave Mayville, July 1999, Complete route: Bob Gaines & Charlie Peterson, August 1999
Page Views: 306 total · 29/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Sep 9, 2017
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Damn near a sport route this is an excellent climb, I can't believe it hasn't been posted yet.
Start in the short corner directly under Left Ski Track, top that out and move left to the first bolt. Perfect incut holds through four bolts and then start traversing left and up at the fourth bolt. Four more bolts on the traverse, some no hands moves included, brings you to a nice ledge and a two bolt anchor (the two bolt anchor for The Unchaste would be 15ft below you)

P2 Short punchy pitch, from the belay head up and right on jugs to a bolt, then step down and right for a second bolt, then hard moves 11b to clip a third bolt, and up to another 2 bolt belay.

P3 6 bolts with some 11a to another 2 bolt anchor.

Location

Start directly under the Left Ski Track in a short left facing corner.

Protection

Draws, extendable slings, and a single rack for the start section and the final section.

Photos

DannyJ
San Diego, CA
 
DannyJ   San Diego, CA
 
3/3 stars, everything you could want in a route. Interesting, fun movement throughout which includes a thought provoking crux and a delicate traverse...not to mention it's very well protected. This is one of the best routes in Idy - get on it. Sep 9, 2017
C Miller   CA  
There is a short 4th pitch (5.0) which leads to the top of the rock if you are into that sort of thing. Sep 12, 2017

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