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Caper's Caper (Massive Traverse)
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in South Face - Left Side
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[Redacted] T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Bohemian Rhapsody T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Caper's Caper (Massive Traverse) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Chauvinist, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chingadera T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Feminist, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Flying Circus T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A4 R |
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Heathen, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Innominate, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Left Ski Track T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Mavericks T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Offshoot, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Powell Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Reach, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Right Ski Track T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sling Swing Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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South Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Unchaste, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 16 pitches |
| FA: | Old School |
| Page Views: | 678 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Tradiban on Apr 26, 2021 |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
A massive traverse, right to left, starting on Left Ski Track and ending on Sahara Terror. Mostly 5.7 to 5.9 but harder pitches can be mixed in.
**There's significant loose rock on the second half and be sure to protect your follower**
P1: First Pitch of Left Ski Track to belay bolts.
P2: Sling Swing Traverse to Green Arch bolted anchor.
P3: Around the corner and down a touch to belay in Open Book alcove.
P4: Do Bookmark pitch, hardest difficulty moves 10b, to belay on Jensen's Jaunt.
P6: Do step around on JJ then step down and past medium bush/tree, then slight downward to belay on Fingertrip.
P7: Straight across the wall under lunch ledge, belay in Angel's Fright.
P8: Do Ubangi Lips pitch of Jonah and keep going left to Pine Tree Ledge on The Trough.
P9: Take Piton Pooper (5.7) or Spiders From Mars (10c) to Upper Royals Arch.
P10: Start off on Upper Royals but when in leaves the crack go straight left across the face all the way to belay just below Price of Fear.
P11: Climb up a bit on to Price of Fear then down climb the starting ramp to nice belay on Super Pooper.
P12: Down climb 10 feet and traverse left over second pitch of The Step to belay on White Maiden.
P13: Go up WM and when it cuts right go straight left to Whodunnit to belay.
P14: Traverse left on blocks to Sahara Terror.
P15-16: Finish on Sahara Terror.
Originally we down climbed The Uneventful from Sahara to the big ledge then finished on North Buttress but North Buttress gully is pretty sketchy.
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