Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
FA: Chuck wilts and Ray Van Aken, Sept 1947
Page Views: 32,882 total · 150/month
Shared By: Ben Crowell on Feb 24, 2006 · Updates
Admins: C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

This climb is a short moderate route that can be done early in the spring when there is still snow on the north side.
It lies around the corner to the right of Open Book. The two parallel cracks are easy to identify, and there is a big pine tree near the start that is a landmark and a ground anchor. The easiest approach is if you climb the trail until you're as high as the tree, then traverse to the left to the tree.

P1. Zigzag back and forth along some slabby ledges until you're at the base of the tracks. Move across the front of a little tower until you're close to the left track, then head up steep face climbing with big holds. The easiest climbing is in between the tracks, not literally in the left track. The two-bolt anchor lies off to the left, on a ledge formed by an oval that projects out from the rock. Move left under the overhanging part of the oval and feel for small holds above. As an alternative if you're concerned about a pendulum fall, continue up the track a little bit and then come back down and left to the anchor.

P2. This pitch is the one that actually follows the track itself. When the track ends, there are two fixed pins on an arete, which provide pro for a committing step-around move into an alcove. To protect the follower, it's possible to reach back and place a cam high up, or place large gear in a crack at the back of the alcove. Continue around the neck of a wine-bottle formation into a second alcove and belay.

P3. Climb the steep tower, which ends at a slab with a bolt. After the bolt, head left along a class-3 ledge. Finish at a tree. (Many other variations are possible for the finish.) Go uphill to the friction descent.

Protection Suggest change

Pro to 3", slings for chicken-heads. Long slings for when the route wanders. A 4" cam can be convenient.

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