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Routes in South Face - Left Side

Black Harlots Layaway T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Chauvinist, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chingadera T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Heathen, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Innominate, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Ski Track T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Offshoot, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reach, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Right Ski Track T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sling Swing Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unchaste, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Bob Kamps & Mark Powell, 1967
Page Views: 2,242 total, 20/month
Shared By: Nat Lim on Jul 7, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A phenomenal test-piece with stellar crack moves, a distinct mantle, and smearage fest/crux one will never ever forget. Incredibly sustained saving it's best for the last!

Location

to the right of the Ski Tracks

Protection

Small pro .4-1" down low to protect the crack, and a handful of draws to protect the upper section

Photos

J Kazu
Los Angeles, CA
5.11a
J Kazu   Los Angeles, CA
5.11a
I read the beta and still got suckered by the jugs to the right of the last bolt. Left looks desperate but not as desperate as going right ends up. My follower also broke off a pinch hold mid route. Not sure if the difficulty of the route is affected. Aug 30, 2016
Tradiban
  5.10d
Tradiban  
  5.10d
Loved it but I had a totally different experience then described here. First off the Vogel/Gaines topo is a little off. The 5th bolt is directly below the 3 bolt anchor and the three bolt anchor is for suckers. I angled up and left to the 6th bolt and never touched it. I can see how people would go right at the 5th bolt but you would definitely go into no holds land. Looks like there was a flake there at one point to assist in clipping those anchors but it's gone now.

At the 6th bolt I traversed more left then came back right, clipped the last bolt and traversed right to the second bolted anchor.

Didn't feel sustained at all, almost no hand rests at every bolt and great crimps or even incuts every where except the crux. Didn't see a mantle either.

Anyway, great route, do it! May 21, 2016
dnaiscool
  5.11a/b
dnaiscool  
  5.11a/b
Indeed Chris Owen, Bob climbed a lot in those Pivetta Muir Trails, and that was pretty much all I saw him wearing when ever I saw him bouldering at Stoney Point throughout the sixties, edging splay-footed all over the hardest problems of the day. It was either those or klettershoes back then...until the English gave us the Ellis Brigham...EB's changed everything, and man'o'man could those EBs edge!! Mar 29, 2015
dnaiscool
  5.11a/b
dnaiscool  
  5.11a/b
Correction: This was originally an aid route. In April of 1964 Mark Powell and S. Altman put in all the bolts, using aid in some positions. They called the free climbing in the first six bolts 5.9 (!) but had to aid the 4th and 6th bolts. In the 1965 Supplement to the '62 Guide book, Wilts notes that it "would be interesting for someone to try to free the moves at the 4th and 6th bolts." I guess Bob was the only one capable of the challenge, right?!
Though Bob Kamps' FFA IS remarkable, he did not drill from stances as legend would have it. I think this route is harder than "Valhalla", and that it was done in 1967 is seismic. When I led it I came in along the 5.10+ ramp on climber's left to get to the top of the 5.8 crack. Done this way, the climb is quite sustained and more consistent for the grade and type of climbing. I did go to the left at the last bolt...good (read: Lucky) choice for an on-sight. Mar 29, 2015
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a
Going left is desperate as well, but doable. Very desperate smearing on a rail with my right foot (waist high), while crimping hard with my left hand, edging on my toes with my left foot on a miniscule flake, and huge core tension got me to the anchors... I remember my feet hurting after I got off of this climb from the intense edging. Nov 6, 2012
T.J. Esposito
San Diego, CA
 
T.J. Esposito   San Diego, CA
 
Tried for an OS without any of the above beta and did the same thing as Nelson... went up and right and was level with the anchors and pretty much had to intentionally fall (a long one but relatively clean). Still ended up making the anchors from the right though; the last 6 inches of reaching for them was possibly the most tenuous move I've ever made, and the tip of my left middle finger is still numb from survival crimping on those tiny edges past the last bolt. Looked at going up and left as an alternative but it looked too blank; I'll have to check it out again next time. Sep 24, 2012
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a
Tried to onsight, but went to the right after the last bolt instead of to the left. Ended up even with the first set of anchors but unable to traverse over to make the clip and had to take the fall. Go left after the last bolt before the first anchors! Jun 25, 2012
Richard Shore
  5.11-
Richard Shore  
  5.11-
Some interesting trivia per Don Lauria:

"Powell named this route after a dog he bet on in Rapid City on a hunch. The dog came in last - hence the name." HA! May 25, 2012
Richard Shore
  5.11-
Richard Shore  
  5.11-
Ground-up onsight first ascent in 1967. Wow! The stuff of legend. The stances seemed desperate for drilling, especially considering the footwear.

A good pair of edging shoes are recommended. Your toes will be screaming at you by the time you are ready to make the last and final crux move to the anchors. Dime edge crimps and tiny, improbable smears. Oct 7, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Bob Kamps led this in Pivettas - I remember him talking to me about it once, hanging out at Spiral Traverse, Stoney Point - he said they edged really well! May 22, 2010
Nat Lim
 
Nat Lim  
 
Loved this route, and loved how sustained and varied the crux(s) of the route were, a must do for those who love smearfests! Jul 7, 2008