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Routes in South Face - Left Side

Black Harlots Layaway T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Chauvinist, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chingadera T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Heathen, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Innominate, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Ski Track T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Offshoot, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reach, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Right Ski Track T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sling Swing Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unchaste, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Powell, T, Rygg and Roy Coats, Jan 1964
Page Views: 2,338 total · 15/month
Shared By: Dpurf on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The Chauvinist has a hard start for 5.8.

P1 - starts below Left Ski Track in a short dihedral. Climb straight up a steep and flared crack to easy face climbing just left of Left Ski Track to Left Ski Track 2 bolt belay.

P2 - Climb up to a pin, then open to face climbing with 3 bolts to a easy crack that lead to the top.

Protection

Pro to 2.5 inches

Photos

Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
The pin on pitch 2 is gone now, but it protects well with a medium stopper. May 13, 2006
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
The start is definately scary for 5.8 - make sure your belayer pros to the rock. But this is a fun route, well worth doing, and a nice mix of crack and face climbing. I thought route finding was a little difficult to start the second pitch as the bolts are hard to see from where the crack runs out. Mar 10, 2007
roman d
Pasadena, CA
 
roman d   Pasadena, CA
 
Does anyone know what the line that leads directly above the P2 bolted belay is? Climbed up a couple bolts of this before I realized it was not 5.8 and I was off route... Oct 9, 2012
Bob Gaines  
 
That's pitch 2 of the Feminist (5.11-) done by Erik Roed a few years ago. It's located between The Heathen and The Chauvanist, and joins The Heathen's third pitch at its last bolt (5 bolts total) ending at The Heathen's bolt anchor. (100 ft rap to Ski Tarcks/Chavanist anchor.) Oct 9, 2012
roman d
Pasadena, CA
 
roman d   Pasadena, CA
 
Thanks Bob!

FYI, if heading up this, bring a wrench for the second bolt. Cool terrain. Oct 9, 2012
Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
We were at Tahquitz in late june before the fires and looked at this line and decided to try it. It starts with a thin inside corner then the crack through the bulge. I was leading the first pitch, in the crux and was pulling rope for the clip, I put a bite in my mouth to get more rope and I snaped my front tooth out. I watched as it bounced down the climb, hit the slab and rolled down the mountain. It was a new cap. Later as we were heading back to Lunch rock, we stopped for a minute and one of our group looked down and said "is this a tooth ?" it was my cap right there about 100 yards down the hill. Sep 27, 2013
Tradiban  
 
P1 is nothing but a direct start to Left Ski. To stay left of the LS is silly because you have to place gear in the crack. P2 was about 40ft of ok slab climbing. Move on...nothing to see here. Feb 16, 2016
steverett
San Diego, CA
5.8+
steverett   San Diego, CA
5.8+
Did P1 of this, then P2 of Left Ski Track; combines the best pitches of each IMO Apr 4, 2016

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