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Routes in South Face - Left Side

Black Harlots Layaway T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Chauvinist, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chingadera T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Heathen, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Innominate, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Ski Track T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mavericks T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Offshoot, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reach, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Right Ski Track T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sling Swing Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unchaste, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA Chuck Wilts and Gary Bloom, August 1947 FFA Royal Robbins and Jerry Gallwas, 1957
Page Views: 2,201 total · 14/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 25, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This short climb has strenuous and awkward jamming in a deep corner. The first pitch starts with an easy traverse, then a 5.8+ finger jam, and easy hand jamming up to an awkward belay on top of a block. The crux second pitch goes over an overhang via hand jamming, liebacking, and stemming.

Protection

Gear to 3 or 4 inches

Photos

Graham Roff  
 
It is possible to do all the significant climbing in a single pitch and belay above the 5.9 section at a better stance. This leaves the second pitch as a scramble to the top. Just watch for rope drag when placing gear.
Fun route to do on the way down the friction descent. Great exposure and position. Jun 5, 2006
This route becomes a drainage after a rain. Wanted to do it, but it was flowing with water today. Oct 7, 2011
Tradiban
  5.9
Tradiban  
  5.9
Looks like this is often over looked, it's about 1.5 pitches and worth a lap, not awkward for me and had some nice exposure. Take P1 past the overhanging part to a nice ledge. May 20, 2013
dnaiscool  
 
I think this is a terrific route. It may be short, but the setting is sort of intimidating, and the crux is full on gorilla laybacking up a double overhanging book. I did this with Mike Jaffe back in '74 with only nuts, and we belayed at the funkness below the crux. I'd recommend this to anyone leading at that level, so bring it on and pump it out!! Mar 29, 2015

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