Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: (TR) Bob Gaines and Dave Mayville, July 1999, FL: Bob Gaines and Frank Bentwood, August 2001
Page Views: 215 total · 25/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Sep 29, 2018
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Updated in the Best Of Gaines guide this used to be just a TR that joined New Wave 5.12 R. It had two bolts added and now is a great damn near sport pitch. Little heady between 2nd and third bolt.

Clip first bolt from the ramp and figure out the very sporty start. Tricky clips come thereafter and a perplexing downward left traverse at the 3rd bolt will keep your attention. Rap anchor at the end.

There's a second pitch at 11b (straight left to a bolt is a 11d variation), up and left past three bolts to a bolted anchor and then a third 10dR pitch (Muir Trail), one bolt above the anchor then back down and right to better holds and a runout. Check the guidebook for a topo.


Starts left of The Unchaste directly under a painted gray bolt.


4 bolts and 2 bolt anchor.