Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

The Heathen

5.11, Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 3.4 from 7 votes
FA: (Pitch 1 & 2) Bob Gaines & Dave Mayville, July 1999, Complete route: Bob Gaines & Charlie Peterson, August 1999
California > Tahquitz & Suic… > Tahquitz Rock > (i) S Face > S Face - Left Side

Description

Damn near a sport route this is an excellent climb, I can't believe it hasn't been posted yet.
Start in the short corner directly under Left Ski Track, top that out and move left to the first bolt. Perfect incut holds through four bolts and then start traversing left and up at the fourth bolt. Four more bolts on the traverse, some no hands moves included, brings you to a nice ledge and a two bolt anchor (the two bolt anchor for The Unchaste would be 15ft below you)

P2 Short punchy pitch, from the belay head up and right on jugs to a bolt, then step down and right for a second bolt, then hard moves 11b to clip a third bolt, and up to another 2 bolt belay.

P3 6 bolts with some 11a to another 2 bolt anchor.

Location

Start directly under the Left Ski Track in a short left facing corner.

Protection

Draws, extendable slings, and a single rack for the start section and the final section.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This route rocks!!!!!
[Hide Photo] This route rocks!!!!!
Tradiban making it look easy on The Heathen
[Hide Photo] Tradiban making it look easy on The Heathen
Sam rapping off of The Heathen
[Hide Photo] Sam rapping off of The Heathen
Midway through the traverse on The Heathen
[Hide Photo] Midway through the traverse on The Heathen

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

DannyJ
San Diego, CA
 
[Hide Comment] 3/3 stars, everything you could want in a route. Interesting, fun movement throughout which includes a thought provoking crux and a delicate traverse...not to mention it's very well protected. This is one of the best routes in Idy - get on it. Sep 9, 2017
[Hide Comment] There is a short 4th pitch (5.0) which leads to the top of the rock if you are into that sort of thing. Sep 12, 2017