New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #42

Mark E Dixonwrote:

Good luck with your project Ward

Thanks!  Feeling optimistic, no alcohol for six weeks, training hard, and down to 152 pounds.  My big worry is that it is too warm what with the “winter” the West has had.

In that case, allow me to wish cloudy skies and cold weather for you :-)

Do you ever do night sessions?

Mark E Dixonwrote:

In that case, allow me to wish cloudy skies and cold weather for you :-)

Do you ever do night sessions?

No, I am definitely a morning person.  I go to bed  way too early for a night session!

Ward Really sorry to about the Farly closure. Hopefully you guys can come to a good resolution. 

Yesterday morning  swim 

This mornings bullshit 😒 

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

Yesterday morning  swim 

This mornings bullshit 😒 

Did you dig that pond?

It was on the property when Isa  bought the place.  We had it dredged and built the sauna etc.  

Who mentioned “sub-standard” protection?
At one time this was state of the art. 1976 

We used the long bolt (1.50 inch) to make the belay bomb proof.

Pulled and replaced, hole for hole, on “Reefer Madness” by the good Yosemite replacement team.

Someone asked the question “did you think you would come back and fix in the future?

Hell no- we didn’t think we would be alive after 25.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=83BMX-k-vyc&ra=m 

Placing a bolt on Stone Mtn, Georgia, about 1956. It wasn't that steep but the lichen was a problem. I suspect I bought the bolt at a local hardware store. The patch on my butt wasn't that unusual at the time. 

On a boulder up higher. Note the JC Higgins boots. Primitive times  . . .

Before commercially made hangers….

Chouinard hanger from Le Toit, Tahquitz Rock, first ascent 1960

Royal Robbins hangers from El Camino Real, Tahquitz Rock, 1961

Royal Robbins hanger from Unchaste, Tahquitz Rock, 1957

Been climbing locally at late. Haven't refilled the car's gas tank since the end of January. Here I am following rgold's advice and cheering up with some baseline, day before yesterday. 
And to tell the truth the baseline has crept up a bit over the past couple of months.     

Added: the music is on my cellphone. I like it and there isn't anyone else, anywhere nearby to bother

Bob Gaineswrote:

Before commercially made hangers….

Chouinard hanger from Le Toit, Tahquitz Rock, first ascent 1960

Royal Robbins hangers from El Camino Real, Tahquitz Rock, 1961

Royal Robbins hanger from Unchaste, Tahquitz Rock, 1957

Bob those are so great!

Those guys obviously did not know what they were doing. They were never going to go on to do greater things. 

Thinking only of themselves with no regard toward the internet experts in the distant future.

In the late 70s, in the Peshastin Pinnacles. I recall a few homemade hangers hammered into the sandstone with carpentry nails. I doubt they would of held much, but we clipped them anyways.. 

Bob Gaineswrote:

Before commercially made hangers….

Chouinard hanger from Le Toit, Tahquitz Rock, first ascent 1960

Royal Robbins hangers from El Camino Real, Tahquitz Rock, 1961

Royal Robbins hanger from Unchaste, Tahquitz Rock, 1957

That stuff looks truck. Look at these beauties from Laurel Knob. Hardware store bolts with a washer. When first placed they had a loop of baling wire under the washer that the climber would clip. Which of course rusted away in a few months. We replaced them back when Laurel was rebolted. This was on an 7 pitch route and me and my partner were swapping leads with the second carrying a pack with the drill and rebolting gear. He led this pitch but when he got to where the belay was supposed to be he yelled down for me to take everything out of the pack except the drill, wrench and two bolts which he hauled up hand over hand before replacing the bolts. Guess he was worried about me falling and killing us both.

Happily clipped in the Wyldz of Kneevaduh. Much gratitude for the climber who placed this. 

Adventure climbing anchor.  I take pleasure in finding random old gear high on obscure features, hopefully others will enjoy finding a few of these out and about. A big part of the fun is assuming that someone was here before me and doing my best to leave no trace. Sometimes it‘s obvious that the terrain is virgin and a quick anchor is nice to keep things moving. Climbing is fun!

The road to South Lake is open. 

Bob Gaineswrote:

Before commercially made hangers….

Remember seeing those on the Chouinard-Herbert on Sentinel Rock my very first trip to Yosemite.

Shadow self-portrait of me and my partner at the top of the last pitch of the day. 

Dan and Phylp wish I could have rendezvoused with you when we were out your way. Pine creek and Alabama Hills are both fun, even with a mending broken leg.  Your posts are the best here. The love of climbing always present.
On our way back to Wyoming we stopped off at Devils Playground and Spires again  for 3 days of climbing. Some very wild tafoni formations and quite a few worthwhile routes. It’s not the City but then again we did not see another climber for 3 days either. It’s pretty remote. 

Maybe next time Norm, happy to hear you had a nice time and your leg is mending. If we can ever drag ourselves away from our California Dreaming and get back to Wyoming, we will look you for you. 

Thanks for the hello Norm! I enjoyed your posts from Alabama Hills.
I live outside of LA, about 3 hrs to Lone Pine, 4 hrs to Bishop, 5 hrs to Mammoth. I’m up this way very regularly.
When I lived in the SF area, I did a lot more climbing around Tahoe and the valley. I miss those places.

It felt great to get out and place gear today. I haven’t climbed outside for two months due to my long fun international travel and then needing to stay at home for a while after my husband’s shoulder replacement surgery.

I’ve gotten to the climbing gym every week and that is a great workout, but there is nothing like being outside all day! Two days more here and then heading home ahead of the storm pattern.