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wivanoff

Northeast, USA
Male
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More About wivanoff Drop down
Member Since
Mar 3, 2012
Last Visit: 22 hours ago
729 Points
Point Rank: #2,253 DetailsDrop down
Likes Trad, Sport, Tr, Gym
Other Interests
Beer
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Trad climber since 1973. Guidebook author, foodie & crusty old climbing mentor. Likes mellow multipitch trad. Doesn't care about ticking routes on MP.

Comments View All 76

Dec 3, 2024
Western Highlands > St John's Ledges > Upper Ledges
T.B.D. 5.7 PG13
● If this route is 10 feet right of "Falling Bodies", Climbing magazine #97 August 1986 page 17 names this ro… View Comment
Dec 3, 2024
Western Highlands > St John's Ledges > Upper Ledges
Falling Bodies 5.8+ X
● Climbing magazine #97 August 1986 page 17 lists the FA as Bob Clark, Chad Hussey and Ken Nichols but no dat… View Comment
Jun 20, 2024
Western Coastal… > Sleeping Giant SP > Chin
The Knife Edge 5.8
● Description is based on a 1957 YMC Journal sent to me by Sam Weiss. I had never seen this before and am hop… View Comment
Jun 20, 2024
Western Coastal… > Sleeping Giant SP > Chin
Straight Face 5.7
● Description is based on a 1957 YMC Journal sent to me by Sam Weiss. I had never seen this before and am hop… View Comment
Jun 20, 2024
Western Coastal… > Sleeping Giant SP > Chin
Sentry Box Traverse 5.5
● Description is based on a 1957 YMC Journal sent to me by Sam Weiss. I had never seen this before and am hop… View Comment
Aug 24, 2023
Gunks > Trapps > l. Sleepy Hollow
Casa Emilio 5.3
● Fun, mellow, but long walk. The only redeeming part of P1 was the step across. Maybe next time I'll try the… View Comment

Forum Messages View All 1,072

Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Sewn Sling Break Testing Service?
Sep 4, 2026 That's exactly how I did it BITD before sewn slings were widely available. But,  it wasn't bar tacks. It was linear stitching and parallel rows that I learned from an arti… View Message
General > Trad Climbing
Reply: Thoughts on using double ropes as a standard in am…
Jul 16, 2026 I use double ropes for multipitch (Gunks) but use a single for local cragging and single pitch sport.Of course, the advantages of DRT are more than just cut resistance. View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Inexpensive Harness/Helmet for Friends
May 8, 2026 Look at Singing Rock or Liberty Mountain? View Message
Regional > Northeastern States
Reply: TRS in the Gunks
May 4, 2026 Katzenjammer 5.7 & The Brat 5.7 have bolted anchors. 5.7 Crack and Nice 5.9 also have bolted anchors. Easy to access from the ramp to the right.Anything on the Herdie… View Message
General > General Climbing
Reply: Excellent climbing phrases
Mar 17, 2026 If you ain't flyin, you ain't tryin View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Are these older cams still relevant/worth anything?
Mar 11, 2026 Aliens are fine - looks like some offsets in there- , TCUs are fine, several people I know like the BD potato mashers because they're easy to resling and don't need the reinfor… View Message

Route Scores View All 144

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 2,035
● High Exposure
Trad 2 pitches
Gunks > Trapps > i. High E
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 837
● Son of Easy O
Trad 2 pitches
Gunks > Trapps > c. Frog's Head - the…
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 1,147
● Horseman
Trad
Gunks > Trapps > a1. The Uberfall - left
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 167
● Broadway
Trad
Central Valley > Ragged Mountain > Main Cliff
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 641
● Strictly From Nowhere
Trad 2 pitches
Gunks > Trapps > d. Strictly - The Cei…
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 147
● Oscar and Charlie
Trad 2 pitches
Gunks > Trapps > d. Strictly - The Cei…
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● High Exposure Gunks > Trapps > i. High E
Avg:  2,035
wivanoff:
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
● Son of Easy O Gunks > Trapps > c. Frog's Head - the…
Avg:  837
wivanoff:
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
● Horseman Gunks > Trapps > a1. The Uberfall - left
Avg:  1,147
wivanoff:
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
● Broadway Central Valley > Ragged Mountain > Main Cliff
Avg:  167
wivanoff:
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
5.8
● Strictly From Nowhere Gunks > Trapps > d. Strictly - The Cei…
Avg:  641
wivanoff:
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
● Oscar and Charlie Gunks > Trapps > d. Strictly - The Cei…
Avg:  147
wivanoff:
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
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