TRS in the Gunks

As I’m having trouble getting partners together I think I’m just going to TRS if the crowds allow. Obviously I’ll do a day at Peterskill. Ideally I’d like to climb some quality routes in the Trapps or Nears the other day. I’d like to use my 50m static but I’ll have a 70m dynamic as well. I’m not opposed to some reasonable shenanigans to rig a top rope. Looking for 5.7-5.10c

Any route suggestions (not in Peterskill)? Thanks everyone. 

Hopefully you'll get a good list of routes to get after. But for each one, ask yourself if you're sufficiently familiar with the top of the Trapps that you can locate yourself above the route. It's not as TRS user-friendly as PK where you can easily locate the route tops and often look over the edge to see if anyone is climbing below you.

Thanks Mike. Yeah that was kind of my concern. I think at this point I may just spend both days at PK. But if anyone does have suggestions I wouldn’t mind hearing.

With a 50m line you can set up just about any single pitch and honestly most 2 pitch routes you can access from above. Which is a decent bit of the Trapps if you know where you are walking from above. The best beta in most scenarios, is going to be rigging your static line to a tree at the top of the cliff band. Please use some protection around the bark if possible (towel, extra shirt, whatever to prevent bark wear down) Then single strand rap down to your route. Some routes with have bolts at the top that you could re-fix your line to and avoid additional stress on the tree. 

You can set up a TRS super easy on the Herdie Gerdie Block and access several routes in the 5.8 - .10c range. Short routes but you can do laps easily. You just walk up around the back of the block and on my last visit I even saw some rap rings up top. 

Stirrup Trouble .10b/c also a good candidate, thought this wanders a bit. 

Single strand 50m you could also go out and do Teeny Face and friends from the top. (10a, .9+, .9) all really excellent. 

In the Nears - Not sure your comfort level - but you could easily scramble P1 of Gelsa (5.4 but honestly just walking along a ledge) to access the bolted top of Roseland, Shitface, and Birdbrain (5.9, 10c, .12a) 

If you end up going to PK - running laps on Golden Dream is certainly worth the walk, incredible line. 

Brian Vogelwrote:

. Looking for 5.7-5.10c

Any route suggestions (not in Peterskill)? Thanks everyone. 

Katzenjammer 5.7 & The Brat 5.7 have bolted anchors. 

5.7 Crack and Nice 5.9 also have bolted anchors. Easy to access from the ramp to the right.

Anything on the Herdie Gerdie block (some fixed anchors)

Ken's Crack 5.7, Ken and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance 5.10b, Phoebe 5.10b, Fitschen's Folly 5.8 and Charie 5.10a are all pretty easy to set a TR but no fixed anchors that I can recall

I would advise only TRS on weekdays, and even then avoid mega classics. Doing so with any semblance of crowds (in Peterskill, which typically maxes out parking on weekends, or in the preserve) is very poor form. If you want to climb on the weekend, just approach people and introduce yourself and you’ll find a party to join and also make friends for future climbing days. 

Ben Hostewrote:

I would advise only TRS on weekdays, and even then avoid mega classics. Doing so with any semblance of crowds (in Peterskill, which typically maxes out parking on weekends, or in the preserve) is very poor form. If you want to climb on the weekend, just approach people and introduce yourself and you’ll find a party to join and also make friends for future climbing days. 

Fair point. The Gunks Partner Finder Facebook group and the MP partner finder forum will generally yield you a solid partner on short notice! 

Really appreciate all the info! I ended up just going to PK both days this weekend which ended up being great. No issues with crowds, even on the Golden Wall. Was able to do some really fun routes. But I have to say the Golden Dream and Oops **2 thumbs up**

There's some good routes at lost city you can set up from the top as well if you still have more climbing days. You can pm me for info or ask someone local.

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