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Routes in Upper Ledges

Arch of Delight (aka The Corner) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Around the corner TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Athlete's Feat TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blisters (aka Waterfall) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Class 4 Scramble T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X
Crack-and-Up TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Falling Bodies TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
No Gear TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quartz Wall TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slab to Corner TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slickrock TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Super Slab TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
T.B.D. T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Trail Magic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trail Magic Face TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
UnNamed 2 TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unnamed 1 TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Description

The Upper Ledges are likely the second tallest slab in CT next to West Rock State Park in New Haven. The Upper Ledge is basically broken down into two different sections, the Super Slab and the Trail Magic section. Super Slab contains routes from Class 4 Scramble to Arch of Delight (aka The Corner) and many many other variations. You can basically climb all over this slab without much regards for defined routes. To the left of Super Slab is the Trail Magic slab which contains the routes from Athlete's Feat to Quartz Wall. The longest routes are on the Super Slab while the more leadable routes are on the Trail Magic slab.

The Upper Ledges are often used by large groups of toproping beginners, but there are plenty of slab routes to go around.

Appearances are deceiving, this large slab is well over 100 feet tall in places (especially on the right side). A 60m rope will not always reach the bottom. There are two common ways to access the top or walk off:

1) Via a large gully to climber's right of the main slab. It looks easy and safe but, be warned, it can be treacherous especially when damp and full of leaves (all the time). It's safer if you stick to climbers-right of the big boulder at the bottom. As you near the top, exit the gully to the left onto a climbers path along the top of the slab.

2) Via Class 4 Scramble

Getting There

From the Appalachian Trail junction at River Rd., hike uphill on the white-blazed A.T. about 10 minutes. The trail will pass right along the base of the Upper Ledges.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Ledges

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Trail Magic
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Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Trail Magic
 11
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
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Kurtz  
There is a large ascent/descent gully to climber's right of the slabs. It looks easy and safe but, be warned, it can be treacherous especially when damp and full of leaves (all the time). As you near the top, exit the gully to the left onto a climbers path along the top of the slab. If you bring 75-150ft of static rope/webbing, you can to use trees for TR anchors on Super Slab and have your 60m rope reach the ground. Oct 14, 2012
Morgan Patterson   CT  
100ft of webbing affecting trees or a few new anchors in rock? Oct 18, 2013
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
I think the issue is that a 60 meter rope does not make it to the ground on at least one part of the slab. (With sling shot set up). so you need to extend anchor point down from the top a ways. There are trees readily available at the top. The trees appear to be unharmed. Nov 7, 2013

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