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Routes in Upper Ledges

Arch of Delight (aka The Corner) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Around the corner TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Athlete's Feat TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blisters (aka Waterfall) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Class 4 Scramble T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X
Crack-and-Up TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Falling Bodies TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
No Gear TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quartz Wall TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slab to Corner TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slickrock TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Super Slab TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
T.B.D. T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Trail Magic T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trail Magic Face TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
UnNamed 2 TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unnamed 1 TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 520 total, 10/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Oct 28, 2013
Admins: Morgan Patterson

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Description

This climb starts on a (usually) mossy slab just behind a small boulder. Climb the face past a small overlap with the help of the "Hand of God", to a small ledge/rest. (5.7+ / 5.8-) Then step right following the crack. (5.7, maybe 5.7+) When the crack terminates, continue climbing 30 ft up on easy ground to the trees.

Alt Finish: Rather then stepping right into the crack at the ledge/rest, climb the thin face on the left (see dashed line in photo).

Location

Starts about 30-35 ft to the right of Trail Magic.

Protection

Small to medium cams and nuts

Photos

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
 
When I last did it, about 2011, the crack was OK; but it does need pretty regular cleaning. More important is to keep the briars and prickelys down above the small tree for the 'top out'. This is probably a climb that deserves a dbl bolt anchor about 10-15 ft above the end of the crack (i.e. about 5-10 ft below the small tree). Nov 14, 2013
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
is this climb still super grungy with dirt packed into all the cracks? Nov 7, 2013