Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 398 total · 6/month
Shared By: Kurtz on Oct 20, 2013
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

One of the few lines on the main slab that has reasonably spaced pro.

Let me know if you know the route's name and FA.

Start in a straight, finger-sized crack that trends up and left for about 10 feet. After reaching the horizontal crack 20 ft. off the ground, zigzag back and forth to find pro opportunities in cracks and under flakes. Aim for the left side of a small overlap with a left-facing corner and an 18" diameter oak tree at top.

Protection

Very small cams, nuts, tricams (1" or less). Create anchor on medium-sized oak tree at top. PG13 because the pro is small and the flakes are less than bomber. A rappel on a 60m rope will just reach the bottom.

Location

On the left side of the main, upper slab, there is a long, prominent, horizontal crack about 20 ft. off the ground. The route starts about 20 feet right of where the crack widens to about 8 inches (note ferns). Look for two 18" diameter trees growing together right near the slab. See the pictures for more clues.

Walk off right or rappel from the oak tree.

Photos

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.7 R
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.7 R
This is a nice climb...but I think the pro is more "R-ish" than PG, not for its spacing, but for it's quality.
In the photo titled "follow the red line", the SECOND (orange/yellow) rope is hanging on the climb "Last Climb On The Slab (5.9 TR)*", and could also be used for Slab to Corner" TR.

  • While the left-to-right sorting of the climbs shows it first it is always called the "Last" since the trail arrives at the right-side of the slab and this is the far left end.
R Hall Nov 17, 2013
JD1984
Leominster, MA
 
JD1984   Leominster, MA
 
Is this Rackless? If so then Fasulo has it at 5.6 with no gear rating. Did it today and would not want to fall on gear behind those flakes. The horizontal cracks are good though.... both of them. Like many other routes here It could benefit from a good scrubbing but overall the climbing was very good.. Jul 9, 2017