Type: TR, 115 ft
FA: Tom Carruthers & Mark Wenzel ~ 1978
Page Views: 475 total · 8/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Oct 28, 2013
Admins: Morgan Patterson

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Description

Start at the left-facing inside corner 15 ft left of Trail Magic (See Photo). Climb the face just to the left of the corner, the corner and the cracks above (5.7). When the crack ends [ALT] continue straight up on thin friction and crimpers (5.9 +/-?) until one reaches easier climbing, then move to the tree anchor at the top of Trail Magic.

ALTernate: Traverse left to "No Gear". Finish on that route, or move up it 25-30 ft, then move up rightwards following a weakness (with some gear) to the top of "Trail Magic". (5.5-5.6)

Location

See START in Description

Protection

The bottom could be protected and has been led; but the slab would need a bolt or two. If the climb is TR'd from the Trail Magic tree-anchor, a directional (green Alien) can be placed in a crack 25-30ft above the crux moves.

Photos

micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
i think this may be the same route as "no gear" . does this top out past a couple chopped bolts? Nov 7, 2013
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.9
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.9
The chopped bolt (I think there's only 1) is, I believe, at the top of the climb referred to as "No Gear", which starts up "leadable cracks" which start from a minor ledge (with 8-10" dia. tree) about 12ft up. (The cracks actually somewhat reminiscent of the start of "Screaming Meany on Roger's Rock in the Adks) Above the cracks it climbs the face (5.5 +/-) then climbs sort of zig-zagging (with no gear) and then steps right to the final slab with chopped bolt (5.8 +/-)
WHEREAS the climb "Crack and Up" starts in the left facing INSIDE CORNER, BETWEEN the above-mentioned crack and Trail Magic. Climbs the corner, then the crack, then the thin, blank face for 3-4 moves to easier territory (and a thin crack) and finally steps/moves right to finish on the very top of Trail Magic. Nov 14, 2013
This climb was lead back around 1978 or so by myself and Tom Carruthers. I have a photo around here somewhere that I'll post. We figured it went at 5.7, but we really didnt have a good grip on grades back then. Most of the other routes on this wall were done at that time as well (mostly top rope). Sep 28, 2015
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.9
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.9
Mark...
My recollection was that the crack itself as an "alternate start" to the climb on the left (the crack of "No Gear") "went" at a grade of about 5.6-5.7, but that continuing directly up the slab ABOVE the end of the crack was seriously thin face climbing (like 5.8+/ 5.9 and would-HAVE-to-be-"X" as groundfall a certainty), and I found it ONLY possible once the lichen had been brushed.
A lead in 1978, pre-sticky-rubber, would have been a serious undertaking. Are you sure you continued up the steep slab, or might you have moved left after the crack ended, and then continued up, either all the way on "No Gear", or taking "No Gear" up 25-30 ft and then picking up the weakness that leads back to the top of "Trail Magic"?
Sep 28, 2015
Went straight up, had a fresh pair of EB's which are stickier than most folks give them credit for. Tommy and I had done a ton of thin slabbing and highballing on the boulders around Greenwich and Stamford (again, no clue about grades), so that last bit didn't seem so hard. Dec 9, 2015
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.9
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.9
OK.."more power to you!" (...and I guess the "power was with you" too! ) It seemed really thin (maybe akin to Sente at the Gunks, and WAY thinner than stuff like Slabs Direct[5.7] on Whitehorse ) and my recollection is it was definite "ground-fall territory."

If you get back there again, give it another go and we'll go with whatever you think the rating should be. Feel free to re-name it if you want to. Just drop me a note, or put in another comment and I'll change it. (Or a CT administrator can do it.) Dec 9, 2015