Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Upper Ledges

Arch of Delight (aka The Corner) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Around the corner TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Athlete's Feat TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blisters (aka Waterfall) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Class 4 Scramble T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X
Crack-and-Up TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Falling Bodies TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
No Gear TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quartz Wall TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slab to Corner TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slickrock TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Super Slab TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
T.B.D. T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Trail Magic T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trail Magic Face TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
UnNamed 2 TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unnamed 1 TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Bill Ferruci 9/84
Page Views: 417 total, 8/month
Shared By: Kurtz on Oct 20, 2013
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb the left-facing corner (i.e., the right side of the arch). Then step right out of the corner, and continue up the face falling a small crack with a few small trees to 10" oak tree.

A variation/alternate start to Arch of Delight, commonly referred to as Slab to Corner, starts directly below the left facing corner of Arch of Delight. Climb the slab up and right ~30-40 ft to a point where you are about 5-8 ft above the start of "Corner" and make a tricky move left into Arch of Delight. Finish on that climb.

Location

The left facing corner on the left side of the main slab.

Walk off right or rappel from oak tree.

Protection

Small pro to 1". Be prepared to do a bit of excavation in the cracks.

Photos

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.7 PG13
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.7 PG13
I agree....the issue, I think, is that there once was a tree stump at the base of the crack that has rotten away making the first move difficult. I did a LOT of climbing at St Johns between 2004 and 2011 before I moved to NH.

This climb has a possible second pitch. Once the class 2 ramp is achieved, step left and then climb up a flake (5.4-5.5). Continue up the face above, trending a bit to the right, to the trees above. 5.4-5.5 G / PG. The flake can also be used to set a TR anchor for the 5.10 Athlete's Feat. Oct 28, 2013
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
This route was originally given a 5.6 rating, but it is dirty and the cracks have filled in with dirt, moss and saplings. 5.7 PG seems about right. Oct 22, 2013