PRINT: Rock Climb Arch of Delight (aka The Corner), Western Highlands

Arch of Delight (aka The Corner)

5.7 PG13, Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 1.3 from 3 votes
FA: Bill Ferruci 9/84
Connecticut > Western Highlands > St John's Ledges > Upper Ledges

Description

Climb the left-facing corner (i.e., the right side of the arch). Then step right out of the corner, and continue up the face falling a small crack with a few small trees to 10" oak tree.

A variation/alternate start to Arch of Delight, commonly referred to as Slab to Corner, starts directly below the left facing corner of Arch of Delight. Climb the slab up and right ~30-40 ft to a point where you are about 5-8 ft above the start of "Corner" and make a tricky move left into Arch of Delight. Finish on that climb.

Location

The left facing corner on the left side of the main slab.

Walk off right or rappel from oak tree.

Protection

Small pro to 1". Be prepared to do a bit of excavation in the cracks.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The right side of the arch. Start at the tree.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kurtz
Fort Collins, CO

5.7

This route was originally given a 5.6 rating, but it is dirty and the cracks have filled in with dirt, moss and saplings. 5.7 PG seems about right. Oct 22, 2013

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH

5.7 PG13

I agree....the issue, I think, is that there once was a tree stump at the base of the crack that has rotten away making the first move difficult. I did a LOT of climbing at St Johns between 2004 and 2011 before I moved to NH.

This climb has a possible second pitch. Once the class 2 ramp is achieved, step left and then climb up a flake (5.4-5.5). Continue up the face above, trending a bit to the right, to the trees above. 5.4-5.5 G / PG. The flake can also be used to set a TR anchor for the 5.10 Athlete's Feat. Oct 28, 2013