| Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
|
●
Great Escape
|
3. Piedmont Region
> …
1
> Sentinel Buttress
> Center Buttress
|
5
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad
|
|
Jun 13, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Moist and just dirty enough to make it difficult. Harder start than sentinel super direct because of this (even though the climbing is easier). Second half of the route is ambiguous--choose your own adventure and be prepared for your belayer to tell you that's not the way he went.
|
|
●
Bimbo's Bulge
|
3. Piedmont Region
> …
1
> Sentinel Buttress
> Circus Wall
|
|
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Jun 13, 2026 · 1 pitch. The start of this route is intimidating but utterly incredible 5.9-10 climbing on horizontal jugs. This leads to multiple no hands rests and the bulge. There are comments that this is v1 or v3. I think the onsighter should consider it a v3 and the rehearsed climber can take a much softer grade. Can an 11- climber onsight this? Almost certainly not. For that reason I would call it a very easy 11c. The top kinda ruins the route for me, maybe 5.4 but dirty throuout and fragile in places.
|
|
●
Dog and Pony Show
|
3. Piedmont Region
> …
> Moore's Wall (R…
> Dog & Pony Show Area
|
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trad
|
|
Jun 13, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Pumpy. Good gear. Bolt certainly confidence inspiring but not necessary. The top is a jug haul.
|
|
●
Sentinel Super Direct
|
3. Piedmont Region
> …
1
> Sentinel Buttress
> Center Buttress
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Jun 2, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Likely been on this one in its entirety before (2022 with Jason?) but not certain. Started up this to get into edge of fire with Javi.
If you are struggling at the bottom, you need to learn how to use your feet.
|
|
●
Edge of Fire
|
3. Piedmont Region
> …
> Moore's Wall (R…
> Fire Wall
|
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trad
|
|
Jun 2, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Where's the start? We climbed super direct because the rope drag looked better. Allegedly the left facing dihedral right of the off width is the original. The "end" of this route is slightly confusing/contrived--roughly ten feet after the bolt (my instinct was to stay on the face and continue). Theres a large shelf and you can make a belay on the far right side (save your tricams for anchor). Traversing left on this shelf and up will take you to the crows nest.
|
|
●
Puppy Chow
|
New River Gorge…
> …
> Lower Meadow
> 3 Greatest Show Area
|
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sport
|
|
May 24, 2026 · Lead / Redpoint. Face and roof went well. Good knee at rest at the lip but got utterly lost after that...
Right hand creative fist jamb on the left two tits. High feet and stab left. Follow up with high left heel after clipping for the lockoff.
|
|
●
Animal Logic
|
New River Gorge…
> …
> Summersville La…
> DC Memorial Boulder
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b V5 6C
Sport, Boulder
|
|
May 23, 2026 · Lead / Flash. Woo, Hard flash trying to get the good part of that right sidepull. But I managed it somehow after Javi hung the draws.
|
|
●
Pod
|
New River Gorge…
> …
> Summersville La…
> Coliseum
|
|
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Sport
|
|
May 23, 2026 · Lead / Fell/Hung. 2 attempts today. Left hand jamb in the pod to go out right, or right undercling in the pod to deadpoint left.
|
|
●
Reckless Abandon
|
New River Gorge…
> …
> Summersville La…
> Coliseum
|
|
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Sport
|
|
May 23, 2026 · Lead / Redpoint. 2nd go. First go got stumped at the crux from all the chalk and tried to right pinch the awful knob and jump to the sloper. There's a crimp on the face thats 100 times easier than that pinch.
|
|
●
Narcissus Direct
|
New River Gorge…
> …
> Summersville La…
> Narcissus Cave
|
|
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sport
|
|
May 23, 2026 · Lead / Flash. Surprised to flash this while still warming up and slightly pumped. Struggling up top as a result. Javi belay.
|
|
●
Narcissus
|
New River Gorge…
> …
> Summersville La…
> Narcissus Cave
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport
|
|
May 23, 2026 · Another RP. Original RP April 2009. Original attempt in the snow c. 2004. Warmup for today.
|
|
●
TKO
|
3. Piedmont Region
> …
> Main Climbing A…
> 06. Red Wall
|
|
14
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport
|
|
May 12, 2026 · Lead / Redpoint. 2nd go. The crimps aren't necessary at 5'8". It looks as though a glued hold broke at the crux. Left hand to far left stuff with decent left foot, right foot up to ledge and lean hard onto left foot into right cross. Probably 12b as is.
Definitely dangerous without a stick clip. Gingerly climbed solo the first attempt and then broke several rocks on the second attempt when first bolt was clipped.
|
|
●
Master Beta
|
3. Piedmont Region
> …
> Main Climbing A…
> 06. Red Wall
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
May 10, 2026 · Lead / Redpoint. Chill. Multiple hollow rocks. Belayers beware.
|
|
●
Welcome to Crowders
|
3. Piedmont Region
> …
> Main Climbing A…
> 06. Red Wall
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport, TR
|
|
May 10, 2026 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Significantly harder to onsight than silence the critics. The mono is not necessary and quite bad in comparison to other holds available. The feet are very slick AF when humid.
|
|
●
Silence The Critics
|
3. Piedmont Region
> …
> Main Climbing A…
> 06. Red Wall
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sport
|
|
May 9, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Fun middle. Didn't think right at second was appropriate so I went left of bolts and clipped third while precariously perched left (see Eduardo Ramirez photo). Then traversed. Sharp holds up top left. Noticed on the way down foot ticks out right at second which means people are traversing right before the third bolt. That would be significantly easier. Probably 12a at most.
|
|
●
Electra
|
3. Piedmont Region
> …
> Main Climbing A…
> 04. David's Castle Wall
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
May 9, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Pumpy warmup. Lots of jugs.
|
|
●
Desperately Seeking Juggage
|
3. Piedmont Region
> …
> Main Climbing A…
> 06. Red Wall
|
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sport, TR
|
|
May 9, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. LRS, very easy. 10d/11a at most. Silly short.
|
|
●
Opinionated
|
3. Piedmont Region
> …
> Main Climbing A…
> 06. Red Wall
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sport
|
|
May 9, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. LRS right dihedral. Fun layback.
|
|
●
Straight to the Dome.
|
3. Piedmont Region
> Bold Moon preserve bo…
|
|
V2- 5+
Boulder
|
|
May 5, 2026 · Flash. Harder the chrome dome (climber left)
|
|
●
Chrome Dome
|
3. Piedmont Region
> Bold Moon preserve bo…
|
|
V2 5+
Boulder
|
|
May 5, 2026 · Flash. 3 moves
|
|
●
Baby Bear
|
3. Piedmont Region
> Pilot Mountain
> 06. Three Bears
|
|
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
TR
|
|
Apr 28, 2026 · Lead / Redpoint. Third attempt overall. Stumped me first go today and I got flash pumped. Temps great but humid from morning rain made everything spicy.
|
|
●
Erocktica
|
3. Piedmont Region
> Pilot Mountain
> 07. Little Amphitheater
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Apr 28, 2026 · Lead / Redpoint. I've onsighted this previously but didn't tick. Went much easier today than I remember and I don't remember any of the route.
|
|
●
Catnip
|
3. Piedmont Region
> …
> Moore's Wall (R…
> Hanging Garden
|
7
|
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Sport
|
|
Apr 21, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Difficult onsight for a warmup. Route wanders a little, but it's actually super fun face climbing that requires good technique over power.
|
|
●
Wild-Eyed Southern Boys
|
3. Piedmont Region
> …
> Moore's Wall (R…
> Hanging Garden
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Sport
|
|
Apr 21, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Onsight Jason and Paul. Wandering lower section with some longer moves leads to left hand layback that dry-fired just as right hand caught jug. Room for .3-.4 decent TR anchor that can be backed up with tree.
|
|
●
Jesus Christ Superstar
|
3. Piedmont Region
> …
1
2
> Cookbook
> Emla area
|
|
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Sport
|
|
Apr 7, 2026 · Lead / Redpoint. Perfect temps, great friends, newly-renovated, classic route. JCS is truly a superstar route in my book, with multiple technical cruxes and the easiest redpoint finish that one just might fall off of.
Second attempt of the day. Fourth redpoint attempt overall. 2 early working attempts followed by a cleaning rap, followed by a single beta session.
|
|
●
Last Glitch Effort
|
2. Northern Mou…
> Dump
> Dump aka Warpin & Dor…
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport
|
|
Apr 3, 2026 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Climbs left of the bolt line for much of the bottom half. Will take concerted effort.
|
|
●
Lion 2
|
3. Piedmont Region
> …
1
2
> Lion’s Den Area
> Lion's Den
|
|
3
|
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trad
|
|
Mar 29, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. 11a. Hopefully we can get all bob Mosley a grades reduced.
Some choss just before the first bolt. Careful here. Difficult move at the roof can be creatively made much easier. Lots of gear.
|
|
●
The Terminator
|
3. Piedmont Region
> …
1
> Cookbook Area
> Sky-Net
|
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sport
|
|
Mar 7, 2026 · Lead / Redpoint. W/ Jason. Second attempt of the day and third overall. Pretty great route.
|
|
●
Emla
|
3. Piedmont Region
> …
1
2
> Cookbook
> Emla area
|
|
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sport
|
|
Mar 7, 2026 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Sorted low crux twice! The top will be a struggle. Maybe red point attempts in the fall.
|
|
●
Hero's Journey
|
3. Piedmont Region
> …
1
> Cookbook Area
> Sky-Net
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sport
|
|
Mar 7, 2026 · Lead / Redpoint. Warmup for the day. And flash pump. Excellent no hands shoulder rest.
9+2
|
|
●
Ethics in Bondage
|
3. Piedmont Region
> Pilot Mountain
> 10. Devil in the Whit…
|
|
17
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sport
|
|
Jan 23, 2026 · Lead / Redpoint. Coming back to this one to do the correct start (with JBr). Struggled today with third bolt and had to sus out beta. There is a key hold out right if one wants to work through this section or just take the easy route and deadpoint through it.
|
|
●
Single Handed Sailor
|
3. Piedmont Region
> Pilot Mountain
> 08. Amphitheater
|
|
23
|
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sport
|
|
Nov 29, 2025 · Lead / Redpoint. This route could be awesome if it weren't for the two ledges along the way and ambiguous character. Top has numerous exits, but left on the arete appears to be the hardest. Too much farther left and it gets easier. Too far right and it's to the bolt of the easier alternate.
|
|
●
Emla
|
3. Piedmont Region
> …
1
2
> Cookbook
> Emla area
|
|
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sport
|
|
Nov 16, 2025 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Worked to anchors. Still need to figure out 3rd bolt open book moves. But the rest is doable.
|
|
●
Steeper Than Stone Mountain
|
3. Piedmont Region
> …
1
2
> Cookbook
> Magic Mike Wall
|
|
1
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
|
Nov 7, 2025 · Solo. First pitch into sky net with backpack.
|
|
●
Terminator Salvation
|
3. Piedmont Region
> …
1
> Cookbook Area
> Sky-Net
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sport
|
|
Nov 7, 2025 · Lead / Redpoint. More awkwardness and pump but excellent no hands shoulder jamb rest in the middle. This route has loads of small jugs and creative stemming both low and high.
|
|
●
Judgement Day
|
3. Piedmont Region
> …
1
> Cookbook Area
> Sky-Net
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport
|
|
Nov 7, 2025 · Lead / Flash. Pumpy awkward holds down low lead to easy climbing up top. Paul belay with Jason taking pictures.
|
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