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Routes in Circus Wall

Air Show T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bimbo's Bulge T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Break On Through T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Connect-A-Crux T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sentinel Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Zoo View T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tom Howard, Tom McMillan, 1978
Page Views: 4,674 total, 52/month
Shared By: Alexander Blum on Jul 8, 2010
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Description

P1: Climb sentinel chimney to a big ledge. The kind of wide crack right in front of your face is Air Show. It is easy to build a belay here with big nuts/tricams.

P2: From the belay climb right on horizontals until you hit a weird, quartzy crack/corner feature. Blast up this . . . . it stays steep for quite a while. When the angle eases, aim up and a little left towards a crack in the big roof. Cutting feet when you stick the jug earns extra style points. Continue up on easier ground but with a few more steep spots.

Location

Circus Wall

Protection

Standard Moore's dealio
Robert Hutchins
  5.10a
Robert Hutchins  
  5.10a
Would probably rate this higher if it was more sustained at the grade, and if the climbing quality after the roof was better. Agree with Ryan that this is a good route to break into 10- as the opening 5.8 climbing, though having no difficult individual moves, tests the fitness and skills needed to protect 10- climbing. This route isn't just a boulder move. Dec 21, 2011
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
  5.10-
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)  
  5.10-
This is a great route to "Break on Through" into the 10's. It's an easy one move crux with good protection. You can belay off of the tree below Airshow. Dec 23, 2010