Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Maurice Reed, Doug Reed, & Vernon Scarborough
Page Views: 2,229 total · 16/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Nov 26, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

42 Opinions

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I think the Gumfighter is one of the prettiest lines around. It was certainly my favorite at Ship Rock, and Ship Rock remains one of my all-time favorite crags; so what more can I say. Don’t be put off by the rating because a top rope can easily be set up by climbing its neighbor; Borrowed Time. It is also very easy to find because of where it is located; immediately to the right of Borrowed Time.
Crank up through a roof, passing a fixed pin, to where a bolt is encountered on a slab. It can be a little sketchy clipping the fixed-pin on lead, but suss out the beta…;-) From a stance at the base of the slab, either work your way straight up (thin!) or to the right and then up. Pass another fixed pin on your way to easier ground and the top. Enjoy.


My memory can’t recall the exact gear beta for the route, but I don’t think there was a great deal of it to be had beyond the few fixed pieces… maybe a larger TCU or so up high.


John Rudolph  
Very nice route, very thin through the middle section. Recommended TR. I did a nice dyno move after about 10 feet or so to the left to gain the jug before the slab. Aug 18, 2009
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
A 000 C3 down low gets you to the first pin. Dyno? Every move can be done statically. A little finesse and some crimping will see you past the crux. Once established up high this route is safe, but a fall in the crux will mean some air time. Do bring that .75 for the end. Oh, and one of the old pins does not fit many contemporary biners. Nov 30, 2009
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)
Yea the first hard move, which is most certainly NOT a dyno, is protected by any of the smallest cams (black alien, grey tcu, 000 c3) and then the bolt is pretty easy to clip. The hardest moves are protected by the bolt, and then a pin and a .75 to protect the end. Jun 7, 2010
bumbum   Velveta