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Routes in Emla area

Deceivious S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Emla S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Grace Under Pressure T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jesus Christ Superstar S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Theater Of Pain S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Howie Feinsilber
Page Views: 790 total · 14/month
Shared By: S Tart on Oct 25, 2013
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Emla

This is hard 13d. Harrison Dekker said it was harder than anything he'd ever climbed and he sent 13d.

This route really takes its toll on the skin so Howie use to apply Emla (topical anesthetic) to his finger tips to soothe and mask the pain, hence the name.

When I think of Howie, I think of mutant crimp strength and meticulous footwork and you'd better bring them both to this route or it could prove to be a long and frustrating day.

Climb a short face to pull the large lower roof. Get established above the roof and balance your way through delicate footwork and small edges along the right leaning dihedral. This eventually turns into a huge undercling where you get back what you can. Enter - the crux: really steep, big moves, small holds, none existent feet. If you survive this, you can look forward to multiple low percentage mini-cruxs separated by descent rests.

Without a doubt, the most grueling route in the Cookbook.

Location

Third route from the right off the lower platform.

Fouth route from right counting Grace Under Pressure, which starts from the ground, right of the arete.

Protection

Bolts with anchors

Photos

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