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Routes in Center Buttress

Big Jugs T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Edge of Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Escape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sentinel Buttress T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Super Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Robert Mosely, M. Davis - 1963
Page Views: 9,080 total, 78/month
Shared By: Allen Freeman on Jun 2, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

A fantastic introduction to leading trad in North Carolina.

P1
Starts at the foot of the buttress and heads up to the Crow's Nest (many variations). Terrain is easier to the left side of the face but gear placements are more plentiful to the right. Choose your adventure.

P2
Walk onto the big ledge on the west side of the buttress. Follow the obvious notch for 90' of cruiser climbing and good exposure, traverse right and up under the bulge to top out. Walk off or rap back to the Crow's Nest (a 60m barely makes it), and then to the ground.

Location

The first pitch of this is actually on (below) the Circus Wall, and serves as the most common approach to Zoo View and Bimbo's Bulge. Start directly below the Crow's Nest.

Protection

Nuts, cams to #3, tricams for horizontals are nice but not required. Gear anchors for both pitches. Pack plenty of long slings and extend your placements, especially on the first pitch.
frank crisp
Moore
frank crisp   Moore
I'm always surprised I never see or read about anyone doing the 2nd pitch differently. I did the normal 2nd pitch once, twenty years ago. Just not that fun. If you go about as far to the right as possible in the Crows nest, you have a nicely exposed, all be it easy climb to the top.

I doubt it's 5.5 but it has such wonderful views. Has anyone gone super far climbers right in the crows nest and climbed the arete. Does it have a name or just another variation of Sentinel?

I might stop by this weekend with a new climber. This and wailing wall are just the best 1st outdoor trad climbs at Moores.

PS. Is the rap still that funky pulley anchor bolted just below the ledge at the top? I read in the above comments about a rap station that sounds different than the one that was in place during my last visit to Moores. Aug 28, 2017
Dylan B.  
 
I led the second pitch of Sentinel yesterday on all passive gear and it was super fun and well protected.

I noticed the aluminum swage on the cable it the top rap station is getting worn where it rubs against an exposed bolt stud. I don't think the integrity of the anchor is compromised yet, but will need attention sooner rather than later. May 19, 2017
Super fun route for an introduction to multi-pitch & trad. Jugs throughout and great exposure!! Apr 1, 2016
fromtheestuary
North Carolina
fromtheestuary   North Carolina
As of 9/19/2015 the rap station for this route looks beyond bomber, two bolts/hangers in solid vertical placements, connected with swaged cable, with two burly quick links to run the rope through. 60m made it just barely to the crows nest, and plenty to spare back to the ground. Sep 24, 2015
b.t.miller
Charlotte, NC
b.t.miller   Charlotte, NC
Brought my 11 year old son here yesterday so he could lead Sentinel. Overall, it really is a fun climb with great exposure. Spectacular view of the Piedmont/valley.

Gear placement is interesting though. P1- climbed more right at the start which is a touch more challenging but better protected. NOTE: long slings are critical (36"-48" are good choices) because the short pitch wanders. Belay - very surprised to see others NOT backing up the cabled anchors around the boulder of crows nest. There are plenty of natural placements available on the wall proper about 10' behind the anchored boulders. #4 nut in perfect directional slot near the ground and a #0.3 and #0.4 BD cam placed about 6' up in a horizontal (directly above small vertical seam that took the #4 nut). Equalized on long slings. P2- the crack system that you ascend is typical for Moore's-- sort of jagged crack system. Long slings are a must. #3 cam comes in big handy. Climb to the bulge at the top and move up and right. Top out and setup a natural anchor in horizontals. Tri-cams worked really well on the belay setup.. #1.5 and 2.0. Rappel anchors are hidden to climbers left and just below the rim... about 10' to climbers left of natural belay. Mar 3, 2014
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
 
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
 
Greg, take a look at Zoo View page under Circus Wall. The descent is described there. It is the same rappel station that you use to descend Sentinel Buttress. Dec 6, 2013
Greg N
AZ
Greg N   AZ
What is the descent off of zoo view? Sorry have never climbed in this area and not beta Dec 5, 2013
Eric Metcalf was my son. He died 08JUL2012 at Sentinel Buttress. Investigation is still ongoing. Likely a rappelling mistake. Be careful out there. I was a Philmont rock climbing instructor. Eric was a very good climber. Mistakes can happen. Check everything. Verify everything. Trust nothing. Look up "basscausality" on Youtube or "Eric Metcalf" on Youtube. Thanks. Jul 21, 2012
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
  5.5
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
  5.5
I was at the Air Show belay level with the Crow's nest the moment that boulder got yanked up. Got a picture of the rock too that I'll post up for fun. Torso sized?

The belayer was anchored off the large boulder that has the rap slings under it but had also girth hitched a smaller boulder and clipped his harness into it - ostensibly to be "extra safe" and back up the usual big rock. The leader fell and the smaller boulder portion of the anchor took the load first, which caused it to get pulled out of it's little niche and left it dangling from the harness of the belayer, who was now fully weighting the bigger boulder. With some help he got it free and it tumbled down the face of Sentinel to land at the base, mostly intact. Me and my partner yelled for folks to clear out while they sorted out the dangling rock. No one was hurt but the main take away was be careful what you anchor into! Feb 29, 2012
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
  5.5
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)  
  5.5
FWIW, another large boulder that used to get slug was pulled off a few summers ago. The way I heard it, a leader took a fall on Zoo View and his belayer had slung a large boulder as his only anchor to the rock/ledge. When the leader fell, he picked up the belayer AND the boulder, and the boulder fell to the ground below. Glad no one was down there... Feb 29, 2012
Scott O
Anchorage
Scott O   Anchorage
Personally, I won't sling that boulder. If you look underneath it, I don't think much is keeping it there. I doubt the body weight of your second could pull it off, but it's not the sort of thing I'd trust for an anchor. Nov 30, 2011
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
 
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
 
I slung the boulder next to the rap rings at the top of the first pitch. If you do it right, you can give descenders plenty of room and still have a nice comfy belay stance. Nov 29, 2011