Type: Trad, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Shannon Stegg
Page Views: 3,172 total · 22/month
Shared By: Jacob Neathawk on Nov 20, 2006
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


36 Opinions

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Description

This is the last popular route on the main tier (heading uphill) before reaching Harpoon.

P1: 5.10 b/c. Start underneath a flake that often seeps and is capped by some steep terrain and then large roof. Climb some easy ground up to a stance underneath the large flake. Clip a fixed stopper and start railing out the horizontal on top of the flake. Mantel up onto the face and climb some steep jugs to the fixed anchor at about 70 feet.

P2: Either set up a hanging belay from the fixed anchors or instead of breaking the climb up, clip a four-foot sling to one of the anchors and start heading left on crimps to the left end of the roof. Place some gear, mantel onto the face then climb the splitter 5.8 or so crack to the top of the cliff.

Protection

A bunch of small stuff, nothing bigger than a #2 Camalot. A couple of hints: A yellow Alien to protect the first pitch traverse crux and a purple TCU to protect the crimpy section heading out of the belay after pitch one.

Photos

Coz Teplitz
Watertown, MA
Coz Teplitz   Watertown, MA
Although both pitches are good, I think the rating keeps folks off of P1. Do it! It's great! Nov 11, 2010
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
FFA: Shannon Stegg/A GA boy "stole" this one from the locals on a trip to visit his buddy, Jim Okel, at school in Boone. Nov 15, 2010
Rick Carpenter
Marion, NC
 
Rick Carpenter   Marion, NC
 
The amount of gear stuck on this route is absurd, almost a sport climb if one trusted the pieces. Apr 3, 2014
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
 
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
 
Note - take care to protect your second soon after the first crux. Even though the swing is out into space the edge is sharp enough to cut rope. My rope got a core shot when my second slipped. I had gear at the beginning of the flake and next at the parallel thin cracks you reach standing on the flake. Probably would have been better to lean down and place one more piece on a short runner 2/3rds of the way out the flake. Jul 12, 2015
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
 
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
 
Although I think the first pitch is great, be aware that there are an awful lot of loose blocks (I counted 3 or 4 separate sections all big enough to be lethal). Be sure to position your belayer out of the strike zone, probably a bit uphill, in the Harpoon direction. There a grapefruit sized piece that wobbles on P2 as well, in the crux foothold. Jun 10, 2016