Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Doug Reed |
Page Views: | 1,870 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | ErichPurpur on Jun 26, 2014 · Updates |
Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
The striking arete to the right of Gumfighter. Locate shiney new bolt about 40ft up with little visable pro beneath. Route originally climbed gumfighter and worked right, but after installation of bolts on the direct start, most consider right of the arete the route proper. Start just right of the low arete where hiking trail meets the rockface. Follow weaknesses up right and then back left (very little usable pro in this section: pnuts, RPs and/or small tricams). Clip the new stainless bolt with an extended runner and choose: climb left through right leaning arch, or dare right for the dyno under the roof. Plenty of good small to micro pro from here, but bring slings to manage drag.
There is some debate about the safety of this route but R or R/X seems to be the consensus. Easy to toprope but is one of the best leads at Ship Rock, when you are ready for it.
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