Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Doug Reed
Page Views: 1,870 total · 15/month
Shared By: ErichPurpur on Jun 26, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The striking arete to the right of Gumfighter. Locate shiney new bolt about 40ft up with little visable pro beneath. Route originally climbed gumfighter and worked right, but after installation of bolts on the direct start, most consider right of the arete the route proper. Start just right of the low arete where hiking trail meets the rockface. Follow weaknesses up right and then back left (very little usable pro in this section: pnuts, RPs and/or small tricams). Clip the new stainless bolt with an extended runner and choose: climb left through right leaning arch, or dare right for the dyno under the roof. Plenty of good small to micro pro from here, but bring slings to manage drag. 

There is some debate about the safety of this route but R or R/X seems to be the consensus. Easy to toprope but is one of the best leads at Ship Rock, when you are ready for it.

Protection Suggest change

North Carolina rack with lots of smaller to micro options. Not likely to use anything larger than 1"

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