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Routes in Little Amphitheater

Blueberries T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
My Wife's Pajamas T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Popeye Effect, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suspiciously Delicious T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 439 total, 6/month
Shared By: Matt Westlake on May 13, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

This is a route once described to me as "sport climbing on gear". One of those lines that looks kind of improbable on the ground because it's hard to see the holds and where gear might go.

Go up the right side face of the prow following some broken up verticalish cracks to a big move establishing you under the roof. Traverse hard left out to a pancake jug and pull the lip at the point. Continue to the top on moderate low angle terrain and belay from a tree.

Location

From the amphitheater head up trail in the Sentinel Buttress direction, pass the mini-amphitheater and shortly after look for the stunning white prow of rock.

Protection

Small to mid-sized cams, a nut or two and perhaps a #2 (red) ball nut prior to the first horizontal deadpoint up to the right side jug before the traverse under the roof.

Photos

Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
There is a key gear placement on this route that is, aptly, suspicious. Be wary of the horizontal that protects the move straight up to the jug rail traverse. This flexes under load and, although I've seen it hold a fall, falling on that gear seems unwise. May 15, 2012