Type: Trad, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tom Howard, Thomas Kelley 1982
Page Views: 4,035 total · 27/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Nov 16, 2006 with updates from Tom Howard
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

43 Opinions

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p1- Scramble up low angle, easy terrain about 20' to a spot where the wall blankens. Clip the bolt and crimp out right (cruxy) past another bolt to a good stance. Reach left and clip a fixed wire (other gear can be placed too). Pull a roof and follow great holds to the lip of the next roof. Place some small gear and fire the crux! End at some fixed stuff with fat rap rings. Either bring up your second and rap or do...

p2- Shoot for the very obvious splitter crack in a large roof. Climb through it and follow a horizontal out left, then move back right across low-angle terrain for the belay.


BOG Man is easy to spot due to the bolts that protect a cruxy traverse down low. It is on the left side of the main tier, left of Airlie Gardens and right of Welcome to Watauga.


On pitch one, nothing above a .5 Camalot is needed (or can even be placed, really).

Pitch two takes a similar range of gear, although definitely carry the .5. A #2 Camalot provides a directional for the second just past the crux.


Jacob Neathawk
Nederland, CO
Jacob Neathawk   Nederland, CO
Can be done in one long enduro pitch. Make sure you put some long runners on the gear after the end of the "first" pitch, but before the splitter. I do remember placing a bomber #1 Camalot right after the belay where there's a bit of a ledge. Nov 17, 2006
in search of old timers what does b.o.g. stand for in bog man May 29, 2008
Santa Cruz, CA
sam.f   Santa Cruz, CA
Tim, isn't it "Bolts On Grandfather"? Sep 29, 2009
Clemson, S.C.
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
Sam is correct. I believe it was the first bolts placed (that were known) on Grandfather Mountain at the time of the FA. May 2, 2012
Billy Danger
Asheville, NC
Billy Danger   Asheville, NC
To me it makes a lot more sense to combine these two pitches into a single one hundred foot pitch. Jul 1, 2012
Cameron Cassan
Asheville, NC
Cameron Cassan   Asheville, NC
SPOILER: The gear beta in this description is slightly misleading. I used a #2 after bolts before pulling into the P1 roof traverse. To back up tat at the belay, a .75 or #1 work well. Another .75 is crucial at the end of P2 crack Oct 30, 2015
Barrett Pauer
Brevard, NC
Barrett Pauer   Brevard, NC
Both pitches are very worthy! If splitting the pitches up, climb past the fixed belay and build one about 10ft up. Much more comfortable stance! Sep 12, 2016
Jill H.
Spartanburg, SC
Jill H.   Spartanburg, SC
For those who are short like me (I'm 5'1"), I just wanted to say that I didn't notice anything too reachy on this climb. I was on toprope, though, so didn't pay attention to how gear placements might feel. Jun 9, 2018