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Routes in The Balconies
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Balconies- Regular Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Brosseau Finish, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Conduit to the Cosmos T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Desperate Abandon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Electric Blue S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Full Circle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gold Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Inn Crowd, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Knifeblade S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Knifeblade Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lava Falls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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No Sense of Measure S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Peregrine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Powers That Be, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Premeditated T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3 |
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Shake-N-Bake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 240 ft (73 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 36.50052, -121.20317 |
| FA: | Dave Parks and Stud Polack 1986, FFA Stu Polack and Marty Garrison 1988 |
| Page Views: | 269 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Jayson Nissen on Nov 20, 2023 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Always check this web page before you visit for current conditions and nesting closures:
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Description
Pitch 1 5.9 - crux is finding the bolts. First bolt is up and right of the lowest large lodestone. Then move up and left from there with a 0.75 Camalot to protect the moves. Move straight up through three bolts then traverse way right to three more bolts that are just to the left of a large lodestone. The last of these three bolts has a ring on it. From here move up and left to a bolt then back up and right to the anchor. These are original bolts with homemade hangers of dubious quality. (I only climbed this pitch.)
Pitch 2 12a - 13 bolts and a pin.
Pitch 3 5.9 7 bolts plus gear.
Photos
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