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Routes in The Balconies
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Balconies- Regular Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Brosseau Finish, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Conduit to the Cosmos T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Desperate Abandon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Electric Blue S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Full Circle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gold Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Inn Crowd, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Knifeblade S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Knifeblade Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lava Falls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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No Sense of Measure S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Peregrine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Powers That Be, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Premeditated T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3 |
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Shake-N-Bake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
| Type: | Sport, 240 ft (73 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 36.50052, -121.20317 |
| FA: | Gavin Emmons, Brad Young, Alacia Welch, Janice Hirata, December 11, 2018. |
| Page Views: | 1,620 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Brad Young on Dec 16, 2018 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Description
Full Circle is located in a water streak on The Balconies southeast face, to the right of The Powers That Be and to the left of Electric Blue. This water streak is shown on page 291 of the 2007 "A Climber's Guide to Pinnacles National Monument." The topo on that page shows two bolts low in the streak (those two bolts were placed in the early 1980s and the line was abandoned after that).
The climb consists now of three pitches. On the first pitch (5.10b), twelve bolts lead first straight up, and then to the right of the streak, before moving to the left across it and then sharply right back into it. Finish the pitch 90 feet up at a two-bolt belay on top of huge lodestones.
Pitch two (5.10d) starts on the route's well-protected, crux headwall. A total of ten bolts on this pitch lead 80 feet to a two-bolt anchor at a stance.
Pitch three (5.10b) starts with a crux past two bolts. Continue into a low-angle, scoop area and a third bolt. A fourth bolt above protects a second crux onto a magnificent, huge (six foot diameter) lodestone. Two more bolts protect the pitch's third crux to the top of the cliff and a two-bolt anchor, 70 feet from its start. Full Circle ends here (this anchor is at the top of the cliff).
Note too that the first ascent party also installed a "fourth anchor" that isn't really part of the climb, but is above/behind it. This additional two-bolt anchor is located 55 feet mostly-horizontal feet back from the top of Full Circle's third and last pitch, at the base of the next tier of The Balconies. This location is also 150 feet right (south) and slightly up from the top anchor of the route Lava Falls (but again at the base of the next tier back). The anchor was installed to allow parties to rappel down this part of The Balconies with one rope (one 55 foot walk/rappel from the anchor on the upper/next tier leads to the top of Full Circle's third pitch, and three one-rope rappels continue from there to the ground).
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