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Routes in The Balconies
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Balconies- Regular Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Brosseau Finish, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Conduit to the Cosmos S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Desperate Abandon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Electric Blue S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Full Circle S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gold Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Inn Crowd, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Knifeblade S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Knifeblade Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lava Falls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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No Sense of Measure S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Peregrine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Powers That Be, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Premeditated T A3 |
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Shake-N-Bake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Ken Philips & Carl Martin, Feb 1973 |
| Page Views: | 685 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Gregory on Nov 3, 2019 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Always check this web page before you visit for current conditions and nesting closures:
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: due to nesting condors the Machete Ridge area may be closed, from Dos Equis / Corona on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original. Check the NPS and Friends of Pinnacles websites for further information.
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: due to nesting condors the Machete Ridge area may be closed, from Dos Equis / Corona on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original. Check the NPS and Friends of Pinnacles websites for further information.
Description
Chossy climb up a right facing corner with one fixed piton about 15 feet up. Climb is very dirty and overgrown with lichen as of this post. Belayers, keep your helmet and sunglasses on as you will be showered with rocks and dirt by even the most careful of leaders. Crux is at the very end up a squeezy overhanging chimney full of rotten rock to a notch.
The section of rock with the anchor bolts has fallen out, so bring long slings or a cordelette you don't mind leaving if you plan to rappel off the tree at the top, as the old slings are rotten. Recommend double rope rappel unless you have a 70m rope. Alternatively, one could do the traverse (Knifeblade, 5.5) to the top of Stiletto and rappel in two stages from the bolted anchors there.
The section of rock with the anchor bolts has fallen out, so bring long slings or a cordelette you don't mind leaving if you plan to rappel off the tree at the top, as the old slings are rotten. Recommend double rope rappel unless you have a 70m rope. Alternatively, one could do the traverse (Knifeblade, 5.5) to the top of Stiletto and rappel in two stages from the bolted anchors there.
Location
Take the obvious climber's trail up to the Lava Falls (carabiner sign is missing as of this post), veer right at the fork (marked with a sign) and walk parallel to the main balconies face past Balconies Regular Route (obvious left facing roof with a bolt ladder) by several hundred yards. You will see a corner uphill from you to your left with a small oak tree growing out of it. This is the start of Knifeblade Direct.
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