Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Ken Philips & Carl Martin, Feb 1973
Page Views: 77 total · 30/month
Shared By: Sam Gregory on Nov 3, 2019
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Chossy climb up a right facing corner with one fixed piton about 15 feet up. Climb is very dirty and overgrown with lichen as of this post. Belayers, keep your helmet and sunglasses on as you will be showered with rocks and dirt by even the most careful of leaders. Crux is at the very end up a squeezy overhanging chimney full of rotten rock to a notch.

The section of rock with the anchor bolts has fallen out, so bring long slings or a cordelette you don't mind leaving if you plan to rappel off the tree at the top, as the old slings are rotten. Recommend double rope rappel unless you have a 70m rope. Alternatively, one could do the traverse (Knifeblade, 5.5) to the top of Stiletto and rappel in two stages from the bolted anchors there.

Location

Take the obvious climber's trail up to the lava falls (carabiner sign is missing as of this post), veer right at the fork (marked with a sign) and walk parallel to the main balconies face past Balconies Regular Route (obvious left facing roof with a bolt ladder) by several hundred yards. You will see a corner uphill from you to your left with a small oak tree growing out of it. This is the start of Knifeblade Direct.

Protection

Standard rack to 6 inches, 1 fixed piton. Bring a cordelette you don't mind leaving if you plan to rappel here, as the old slings at the top are rotten.

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