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Routes in The Balconies

Balconies- Regular Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brosseau Finish, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conduit to the Cosmos S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Desperate Abandon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Electric Blue S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gold Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Inn Crowd, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lava Falls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
No Sense of Measure S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Powers That Be, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Premeditated T A2+
Shake-N-Bake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 190 ft
FA: Brad Young, John Cook, Kathy Cook, Tricia Young, Joel Primrose, Alan Nilsson, Dennis Erik Strom, Jim McConachie, January 5, 2014
Page Views: 1,208 total, 26/month
Shared By: Brad Young on Jan 13, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The Inn Crowd is located on the west end of the upper tier of The Balconies (It can be seen well from West Side Pinnacles parking). The route starts 100 yards to the south (climber's right) of If We Bolt It They Will Come (route number 711 in the 2007 guidebook). The start is also to the right of the large class three/four ramp which leads up to the routes Desperate Abandon and Gold Line (neither of which is in the guidebook).

To find The Inn Crowd, look for a slight, up-and-right weakness/ramp that allows passage between upper and lower rotten headwalls. The first bolt on the route can be seen about 20 feet above the ground (the climbing to this bolt is very easy). A total of ten bolts on the first pitch lead up and right (at about a 45 degree angle) 115 feet to a three bolt belay on a beach ball size lodestone (bring and use slings on this pitch). The second pitch continues right past one bolt and then continues straight up past five more to another three bolt anchor (six bolts total on this pitch). It is 75 feet from the top of the first pitch to the top of the second.

Descend by scrambling down the class four Desperate Abandon ramp (start with a very exposed scramble from the second pitch bolt anchor onto the ramp), or by rappel. Note, while this route can be rappelled with one rope, and while the rappel from the top of the second pitch to the top of the first is only 75 feet, the rappel from the top of the first pitch to the ground is 118 feet (the last 50 of which are completely overhanging) and this second rappel requires a 70 meter rope!

The Inn Crowd is a very sunny climb; it's in the sun from early morning until the sun sets. It is a good route for cold days (although it is located on the part of The Balconies that close for raptor breeding each January through July). It also offers great views and wonderful exposure.

Finally, two further items of explanation: First, the second pitch of this route ends at a stance on a steeper section of wall just below the ramp and about 20 feet below the one protection bolt on the old "discovered" route Desperate Abandon. The route ends here so that no bolts were added to or within sight of Desperate Abandon and so that the well protected nature of The Inn Crowd was not "diluted" by joining/finishing on the fairly run out upper part of that route. Second, the well protected nature of The Inn Crowd should be understood (and forgiven) since the combined ages of the first ascentionists exceed 350 years.

For a photo-topo that shows this route and other new/newly discovered climbs nearby, click on this link (which connects to the Mudn'Crud Pinnacles discussion forum - scroll to route number 711.6 and the link at the bottom of that route; I couldn't figure out how to post the photo-topo here):

http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=886.0

Location

See above.

Protection

Twelve slings and carabiners and a 70 meter rope (or two shorter ones).
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
  5.5
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
  5.5
Fun line if you are in the area and it is cold. Dec 29, 2015
munge  
Colloquially referred to as "The Sleeping In Crowd" ;) Jan 22, 2015
Geordon Bean
Half Moon Bay, Ca
Geordon Bean   Half Moon Bay, Ca
Great addition to the area. Well protected. Did the route in one long pitch with a 70m rope and a bunch of alpine draws.

A good amount of loose rock on the route but nothing abnormal for the Pinnacles (especially the West Side). Be very careful on the second rappel. There is a lot very crumbly rock that will let loose by the rope. I had a dinner plate size rock dislodge and nail me in the shoulder. Wear a helmet and don't stand under the rappel line once on the ground. Dec 30, 2014