Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Balconies

Balconies- Regular Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brosseau Finish, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conduit to the Cosmos S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Desperate Abandon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Electric Blue S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gold Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Inn Crowd, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lava Falls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
No Sense of Measure S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Powers That Be, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Premeditated T A2+
Shake-N-Bake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, Aid, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jim Bridwell, Craig Little 2/1965
Page Views: 620 total, 10/month
Shared By: Joe Forrester on Nov 5, 2012 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Premeditated is described as being one of the harder lines at the Monument. It follows a leftward leaning crack, up and left under a large roof system, on the left side of the Balconies formation. P1 can go two ways, either face climb up past a bolt until you get to the crack, or start aiding from the ground, in the crack. Both pitches end at bolted anchors. P1 is the only pitch that has any bolts for protection, two I believe. On P2, a tension traverse is required (to the left), to get into the prominent crack system under the large obvious left-ward slanting roof.

Location

Far left side of the Balconies. Descent is via rappel. Apparently this route ends after two pitches, but rumor has it another pitch exists.

Protection

Simple aid rack will suffice. Double set of cams, off-set stoppers, and a couple of beaks were all I used. Anchors have recently been replaced, but as with all bolts at the Monument, use caution.

Photos

kevin deweese
Oakland, Ca
kevin deweese   Oakland, Ca
Has only seen a handful of ascents. It should be very clear that A2+ would be MUD rating, if you're only used to aiding on A2 granite, you'll be in for a pant-filling time up there.

Pitch 1 has gone clean. Pitch 2 goes clean to the roof then you'll need arrows and angles to make the traverse through very DFU terrain. The traverse can probably be freeclimbed at 5.9-5.10ish R/X but I wasn't willing to try it. Expect 2 or 3 hours a pitch. Helmets for your belayer is a must as you're aiders alone will drag off a constant rain of rocks and dirt. Nov 9, 2013
kevin deweese
Oakland, Ca
kevin deweese   Oakland, Ca
Has only seen a handful of ascents. It should be very clear that A2+ would be MUD rating, if you're only used to aiding on A2 granite, you'll be in for a pant-filling time up there.

Pitch 1 has gone clean. Pitch 2 goes clean to the roof then you'll need arrows and angles to make the traverse through very DFU terrain. The traverse can probably be freeclimbed at 5.9-5.10ish R/X but I wasn't willing to try it. Expect 2 or 3 hours a pitch. Helmets for your belayer is a must as you're aiders alone will drag off a constant rain of rocks and dirt. Nov 9, 2013
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
 
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
 
Its not modern "Yosemite" aid ratings. It is standard Fisher's aid ratings. Probably closer to A2 by mud standards. Dec 20, 2012
munge  
Nice job Joe!

I'd be hesitant to compare "modern" Yosemite ratings to Pinnacles rock quality aid ratings, since Pinnacles doesn't have a modern aid rating system. You are probably right, but no where does the axiom hold more true "It's all A1 till you fall" than at Pinnacles. Nov 27, 2012
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
 
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
 
This route is modern A2-A2+. I would also not be surprised if someone has done it clean. Nov 5, 2012