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Routes in The Balconies
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Balconies- Regular Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Brosseau Finish, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Conduit to the Cosmos T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Desperate Abandon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Electric Blue S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Full Circle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gold Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Inn Crowd, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Knifeblade S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Knifeblade Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lava Falls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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No Sense of Measure S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Peregrine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Powers That Be, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Premeditated T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3 |
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Shake-N-Bake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m) |
| GPS: | 36.50052, -121.20317 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,000 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Brad Young on Jan 13, 2014 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Description
This route starts just right of If We Bolt It They Will Come (route number 711 in the 2007 guidebook). Move up a long, wide, up-and-right class three and four ramp (the start of the ramp is shown on the topo on page 286 of the 2007 guidebook as a “mossy slab” ). After three hundred feet, pass a very deep water streak on the left (the route Gold Line is in this streak). Belay at a single bolt on the main wall, above/to the right of and outside of the streak. From this belay, continue up the ramp, which narrows and eventually becomes a face. There is one bolt 35 feet up this "second pitch" - right where the wall gets steeper. Sustained 5.6 climbing leads past the bolt and then to the right, into a gully. There is no summit anchor (although the top anchor for the route The Brosseau Finish is within reach after Desperate Abandon turns class three).
Note that the "length" of this route listed above includes the 300 feet of class three and four needed to approach about 50 feet of fifth class climbing.
Walk off the the northwest (under the route Cover Girl), or move down 25 feet to the bolt anchor for the route Gold Line and rappel back to the class three and four starting ramp.
This is a "discovered" climb which was found because of a long length of 7/16 inch Goldline rope which was visible for years, fixed on the upper face, running from the upper bolt to the top of the cliff where it was left “lassoed” over a horn.
For a photo- topo that shows this route and other new/newly discovered climbs nearby, click on this link (which connects to the Mudn'Crud Pinnacles discussion forum - scroll to route number 711.3 and the link at the bottom of that route; I couldn't figure out how to post the photo topo here):
mudncrud.com/forums/index.p…
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