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Routes in The Balconies

Balconies- Regular Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brosseau Finish, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conduit to the Cosmos S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Desperate Abandon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Electric Blue S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gold Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Inn Crowd, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lava Falls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
No Sense of Measure S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Powers That Be, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Premeditated T A2+
Shake-N-Bake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
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Type: Sport, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 172 total · 18/month
Shared By: Tony Lobay on Nov 10, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is usually climbed as 2 pitches, then rappelled. There is a pitch 3 extension to the route (5.12). The first pitch is 5.10d R. It's pretty darn committing. Superb rock quality.
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
 
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
 
This is an excellent climb. Definitely one of the better lines for the grade at Pinnacles. Some long fall potential, but not too bad. The last "continuation" pitch should really be considered just the same route. If you can climb the first two pitches, the last should be manageable. There is a 5.11-ish series of moves down low, and then a couple of 5.12-ish moves going through the overhang. The last 60 feet of the last pitch are straight up awesome.

P1 - 5.01d R
P2 - 5.10a R-ish
P3 - 5.12a

Rap beta: you can rap the last pitch with a single 60m rope. We used two 60m ropes the rest of the way down.

Gear: no need for any gear. Just draws. This route would benefit from a bolt upgrade at some point though, as many of the hangers are old hand-made affairs. Dec 10, 2017

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