Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 72 total · 29/month
Shared By: Sam Gregory on Nov 3, 2019
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Traverse right on top of the "Knifeblade" arete up from the notch (end of Knifeblade Direct 5.8).  Easy 5.5 climbing on marginal quality rock. The view and exposure from the traverse is excellent. There are two old bolts on the route - one about 15 feet up on the left side and the other about 2/5 of the way on the route also on the left side. The first bolt hanger requires a micro biner to fit inside the very small hole if you wish to clip it.

Descent is accomplished by either traversing back to the notch and rappelling off of Knifeblade Direct (two rope rappel unless you have 70m), or rappelling in two stages off of the top of Stiletto (5.10d). As of this post, I have replaced the old rotten cordelette on the top of Stiletto with a new double length sling, a couple large oval biners and a quick link.

Location

Starts at the top of Knifeblade Direct (5.8). Take the obvious climber's trail up to the Lava Falls (carabiner sign is missing as of this post), veer right at the fork (marked with a sign) and walk parallel to the main balconies face past Balconies Regular Route (obvious left facing roof with a bolt ladder) by several hundred yards. You will see a corner uphill from you to your left with a small oak tree growing out of it. This is the start of Knifeblade Direct.

Protection

Start from natural anchor at the tree in the notch (top of Knifeblade Direct, 5.8), 2 old bolts on route, optional slung knobs, ends at two bolt anchor at the the top of the second pitch of Stiletto (5.10d)

Photos

0 Comments