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Routes in The Balconies

Balconies- Regular Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brosseau Finish, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conduit to the Cosmos S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Desperate Abandon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Electric Blue S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gold Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Inn Crowd, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lava Falls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
No Sense of Measure S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Powers That Be, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Premeditated T A2+
Shake-N-Bake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Sport, 245 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 385 total, 7/month
Shared By: Mark Doliner on May 26, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

First pitch is 150 feet.

Location

The next water streak right of Lava Falls.

Protection

Bolted all the way. A little run out between 3rd and 4th bolts--you could maybe place a cam.

Photos

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Tony Lobay
  5.11a
Tony Lobay  
  5.11a
If this got 100 more ascents it would be great. Maybe someone could drive a sweet sweeper over it to get all the crud off? A bit loose in places, especially given it was put up 25 years go. An 11a that calls for optional trad gear is never going to be super popular.

That said, the length makes up for the loose/dirty factor. The 11a section is very well protected. If the 5.8 mantel above the break scares you (trad pro, kind of loose), turn around. Its really secure, not as bad as Lava Falls runouts. Overall closer bolt spacing than Fava Falls, but not as solid rock.

For the grade, Bandits in Bondage, Power Tools, and Son of Dawn are better. Oct 23, 2016
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
  5.11a
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
  5.11a
No need to bring cams. Hard climbing is protected with bolts. Dec 29, 2015
Dustin Stephens
  5.11a
Dustin Stephens  
  5.11a
Chossy, dirty, fun Dec 31, 2014
Mark Doliner  
 
I climbed the first pitch of this yesterday. The climbing is fun. It's mildly chossy and mossy, especially as you approach the hanging belay.

I didn't do it, but I THINK you can rap both pitches with a 70m rope. Definitely not with a 60m. May 26, 2013