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Routes in The Balconies

Balconies- Regular Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brosseau Finish, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conduit to the Cosmos S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Desperate Abandon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Electric Blue S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gold Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Inn Crowd, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lava Falls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
No Sense of Measure S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Powers That Be, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Premeditated T A2+
Shake-N-Bake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Frank Sacherer, Howard Bradley, Steve Roper, 12/1961 FFA Tom Higgins, Chris Vandiver, 5/1979
Page Views: 115 total, 8/month
Shared By: David Delkeskamp on Oct 29, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Nice line but sketchey rock quality! High choss factor with a wee bit of bat guano mixed in. The charm for me was climbing a line put up by Yosemite hard guys way back in 1961. For perspective, the Salathe Wall on El Cap was put up just three months earlier. I wonder how many bolts had been placed anywhere on the planet before Sacherer, Bradley, and Roper put up this line? Wonder how much time and effort each bolt entailed?
First pitch felt like sustained 5.10 and crux felt 10c-ish.
This route gets direct morning sun and cooks on warm days.

Location

Approach as for Lava Falls; a few minutes past the Lava Falls turnoff from the big trail look for a climber's trail (there are a few signs with carabiners painted on them) and head up. DESCENT: Hike a few minutes down hill and (double rope) rappel route #728. Big fixed anchor with chains here. Note: This area is usually closed for for bird nesting January through July; check before you go.

Protection

This line was retrobolted by Clint Cummins and "Friends of the Pinnacles" in 2006. Thanks Clint and FOP! Many draws. I did place a few cams (red and yellow camalots) up high as well as a few nuts. The gear info in Young's guide was spot on for me. Combining pitches works (Young's guide calls it four pitches) but be mindfull of rope drag.

Photos

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Nice entry David, complete with all the FA information and excellent comments.

Could I offer one slight correction though? The route was rebolted (not retrobolted). I think retrobolting is generally accepted to mean "adding bolts." Clint and FoP rebolted it (and wouldn't ever add bolts). My continuing thanks to him and them too. Nov 9, 2016