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Routes in The Balconies

Balconies- Regular Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brosseau Finish, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conduit to the Cosmos S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Desperate Abandon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Electric Blue S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gold Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Inn Crowd, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lava Falls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
No Sense of Measure S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Powers That Be, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Premeditated T A2+
Shake-N-Bake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Tom Higgins and Chris VanDiver 5/1976
Page Views: 2,912 total, 40/month
Shared By: David Delkeskamp on Dec 12, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Shake-N-Bake is a Pinnacles classic. Three older bolts bring you to the first anchor which is two old bolts and one new one. It is possible to get a decent nut in before traversing out to the first bolt. The theme here is traversing on okay but not great rock. Challenging for the follower as well as the leader. Pitches two and three offer wonderful "silo" style stemming up a water streak. Rock quality on pitches two and three is good by Pinnacles standards and most of the bolts are newer. Though steep for the grade, decent stemming technique will keep the pump at bay. Two 60 meter ropes will get you down in two raps. Shake-N-Bake earns its "R" rating (on every pitch) but confident 5.10 leaders will find it very enjoyable and never desperate. Check for seasonal closures due to nesting. Climbed 11/27/11

Protection

Draws and a few slings. A few nuts (see guidebook recommendations).
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
 
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
 
Excellent climb, super enjoyable. The traverse in makes it feel higher. All bolts are excellent, with bomber raps. No need for any additional gear. If you are climbing 5.10 at Pinns you should have no problem. Nov 12, 2017
Tony Lobay  
 
As of yesterday, all bolts have been replaced with 3/8" stainless steel (props to Cummins and Hildebrand). Nov 10, 2017
Natalie Nicole
San Francisco, CA
Natalie Nicole   San Francisco, CA
Has anyone done this route recently? I tried getting on it today, only to be met with a lot of choss and difficult route finding (accidentally got on Electric Blue because I couldn't locate any of the bolts for Shake-N-Bake). Are the bolts still up? Or were they taken down, given the condition the above commenter noted they were in nearly 3 years ago? Dec 23, 2016
Simon W
Nowhere Land
 
Simon W   Nowhere Land
 
Excellent climb! A definite step up from Lava Falls, but more in adventure than difficulty. (The crux sections are harder, but not by leaps and bounds.) The posters statement about this climb never being desperate for 5.10 leaders is accurate. Keep an eye out to the left higher up on the second pitch because that's where most of the bolts are. I climbed past a couple and had to reverse a move or two just to clip near my knee.

The bolts on the first pitch are seriously manky. This was the psychological crux for me. Old rivets with rusty hangars. Definitely wouldn't want to load them at this point, let alone take a lead fall. The topo in Young's book depicts these bolts in a straight line but the second bolt is a near horizontal traverse right and the 3rd is more up and to the right. Don't get too low right there.

RE gear: After fiddling with a few nuts at the start I was able to get a decent yellow WC zero cam in to protect the moves to the first bolt. There is a bomber pod for a red C4 cam near the end of the third pitch when the bolts stop. Jan 7, 2014