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Snidely Whiplash
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Mustache Wall
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Air Toil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Aromatic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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B-Gizzle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Becky extension ( remember to tie a knot in the end of your rope) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Becky Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Blast Furnace S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Boldly Departed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Caught Stealing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Charred (Flame Thrower Variation) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Close Shave S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Coven (Seriously Though) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crazy Course S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cuss Terr's Last Stand S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dakota Street Bypass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Double D ConFusion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Double Dog Dare S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fire Bomb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Flame Thrower S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flamed Variation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Four steps ahead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fu Manchu S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gala Tumble S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gimpenator S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gizzle Bomb T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Grindulator S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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High n Dry S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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High Pressure System S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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It's Not The Wheat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Megaplex, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Megaton S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Melodramatic S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Mr. Ridiculous S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mustache Ride S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Notorious B.E.G., The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Oktoberfest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Phenomena S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Power Of Union S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Psycho Sexy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Psycho Variation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Redactulator S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Remington Electric, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rocktoberfest T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Secret Stash left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Secret Stash right T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shattered Glass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sidecar T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Slippery Slope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Snidely Whiplash S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Stone Cold Fusion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Supergrinder S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Supermega S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Three Amigos S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tiddlywinks S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Toiler, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Window Shopper S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 37.3836, -118.67689 |
| FA: | Bernd Zeugswetter, Darrell Hensel, Tai DeVore |
| Page Views: | 415 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Darrell Hensel on Jul 2, 2023 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Pitch 1: 13a, 14 bolts. Thin face to a small roof. Continue up the excellent 12a technical face above. Belay at the mussies on a small ledge up and right of the P1 Megaplex anchor. This pitch was originally done turning the roof slightly further left. Bernd rerouted it more direct over the roof which improved the pitch.
Pitch 2: 11c, 16 bolts. Move slightly right and climb cracks and a groove until forced left onto "Choss Tower". Belay at the top of the tower.
Pitch 3: 12c, 9 bolts. Climb a short distance up the easy chimney before exiting left onto the exposed face at the top of the Mustache. Face climbing and seam moves in a great location end at a mussy anchor at the top of the Mustache wall.
This route was mistakenly named "Snively Whiplash" instead of "Snidely Whiplash" in the DeVore guide. Snidely loved to twirl his handlebar mustache as he tied Nell to the tracks.
WARNING - It's best to do this route with an 80m. It is a full 40m rappel/lower from the P2 anchor to the P1 anchor. However, it can be done with a 70m by swinging over to the P1 anchor of the Toiler instead of the Whiplash P1 anchor.
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