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Routes in Mustache Wall

Air Toil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Aromatic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
B-Gizzle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Becky Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Blast Furnace S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boldly Departed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Coven (Seriously Though) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cuss Terr's Last Stand S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dakota Street Bypass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Dog Dare S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fire Bomb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flame Thrower S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fu Manchu S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gala Tumble S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gimpenator S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grindulator S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Megaplex, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mr. Ridiculous S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mustache Ride S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Not The Wheat S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Notorious B.E.G., The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phenomena S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Power Of Union S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Psycho Sexy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Remington Electric, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Secret Stash left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Secret Stash right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shattered Glass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidecar T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slippery Slope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stone Cold Fusion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supergrinder S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toiler, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Window Shopper S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Terri Condon and Tony Sartin (Summer 2008)
Page Views: 1,043 total, 13/month
Shared By: terri condon on Mar 10, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Plenty of thin, technical climbing on this one, with an exciting yet well protected mantle at the anchor.

Location

This route is between Coven and The Becky Route, climbing just left of the chimney.

Protection

10 bolts with a 2-bolt anchor lower off.

Photos

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Short Fall Sean
Flagstaff, AZ
Short Fall Sean   Flagstaff, AZ
Not the best route on the wall, but still plenty of fun. I finished the climb like Vlad did, moving out onto the arete and then back toward the anchor. This looked easier than going straight up, especially since you can stand on a little ledge on the arete for as long as you want before doing the last moves. Still seemed like 11b was the right grade though. May 14, 2015
Vlad S
  5.11b
Vlad S  
  5.11b
I finished the climb on the arete out right and didn't touch the chalked holds right below the anchor until I stood on them later. It was pretty easy that way, you can still clip the last bolt and the anchor no matter how tall you are. Fun route! Sep 3, 2013
terri condon  
 
We recently added a bolt between the last bolt and the anchor to make the mantle move less intimidating. Cheers. Aug 13, 2013
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
 
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
 
I disagree with others. I think the last move makes the climb better. I think the point is to clip the anchor without grabbing the chains. Height is irrelevant. If you can't do this, work on your flexibility. It's not that hard, just my opinion. Aug 15, 2011
Jason Chinchen
Bend, Oregon
 
Jason Chinchen   Bend, Oregon
 
Ditto. Contrived last move. Not to mention the rope gets stuck behind your foot while trying to mantle if you are not careful. I was able to clip the anchor without grabbing them at 5'7" but it was not fun. Aug 15, 2011
Randy in Ridgecrest
Inyokern, CA
  5.11b
Randy in Ridgecrest   Inyokern, CA
  5.11b
Have something against short people? This is a good climb but with a flawed ending. If you are 5'11" you have a easy 5.9 mantle to grab the anchor (and you will). If you are 5'7" or below you are in for a really hard and bold time. I'm 5'8" and I thought the move was harder than the 11b "crux" midway up the climb. This wouldn't be that big of a deal except the last bolt protecting that move is well under your feet. This creates an artificial height dependent difficulty (and fall) on a top down climb - kind of an ethical issue, yes? This ending could be fixed for all climbers by extending the anchors another 6 inches or so. Fix the end, then everyone has the same range of options.

I'll do the climb again, it's a nice one, but I'll be taking some kind of extendo draw to fifi the anchor from the positive position tall climbers get to enjoy. Jul 25, 2011