Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Terri Condon and Tony Sartin (Summer 2008)
Page Views: 1,197 total · 12/month
Shared By: terri condon on Mar 10, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

42 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


Plenty of thin, technical climbing on this one, with an exciting yet well protected mantle at the anchor.


This route is between Coven and The Becky Route, climbing just left of the chimney.


10 bolts with a 2-bolt anchor lower off.


- No Photos -
Randy in Ridgecrest
Inyokern, CA
Randy in Ridgecrest   Inyokern, CA
Have something against short people? This is a good climb but with a flawed ending. If you are 5'11" you have a easy 5.9 mantle to grab the anchor (and you will). If you are 5'7" or below you are in for a really hard and bold time. I'm 5'8" and I thought the move was harder than the 11b "crux" midway up the climb. This wouldn't be that big of a deal except the last bolt protecting that move is well under your feet. This creates an artificial height dependent difficulty (and fall) on a top down climb - kind of an ethical issue, yes? This ending could be fixed for all climbers by extending the anchors another 6 inches or so. Fix the end, then everyone has the same range of options.

I'll do the climb again, it's a nice one, but I'll be taking some kind of extendo draw to fifi the anchor from the positive position tall climbers get to enjoy. Jul 25, 2011
Jason Chinchen
Bend, Oregon
Jason Chinchen   Bend, Oregon
Ditto. Contrived last move. Not to mention the rope gets stuck behind your foot while trying to mantle if you are not careful. I was able to clip the anchor without grabbing them at 5'7" but it was not fun. Aug 15, 2011
Mojave, CA
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
I disagree with others. I think the last move makes the climb better. I think the point is to clip the anchor without grabbing the chains. Height is irrelevant. If you can't do this, work on your flexibility. It's not that hard, just my opinion. Aug 15, 2011
terri condon
terri condon  
We recently added a bolt between the last bolt and the anchor to make the mantle move less intimidating. Cheers. Aug 13, 2013
Vlad S
Vlad S  
I finished the climb on the arete out right and didn't touch the chalked holds right below the anchor until I stood on them later. It was pretty easy that way, you can still clip the last bolt and the anchor no matter how tall you are. Fun route! Sep 3, 2013
Short Fall Sean
Flagstaff, AZ
Short Fall Sean   Flagstaff, AZ
Not the best route on the wall, but still plenty of fun. I finished the climb like Vlad did, moving out onto the arete and then back toward the anchor. This looked easier than going straight up, especially since you can stand on a little ledge on the arete for as long as you want before doing the last moves. Still seemed like 11b was the right grade though. May 14, 2015