Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Kevin Calder, Marty Lewis, Fred Berman
Page Views: 2,240 total · 22/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Jul 19, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


101 Opinions

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Description

This is one of the first routes you'll encounter as you walk into the gully. It's the obvious left facing corner with a thin crack. It's a bit on the short side compared to most of the other routes on Mustache Wall, but the moves are fun and it's worth doing. The crux is the first few feet of the lieback. The fingers are pretty good but there's no footholds to speak of.

Location

The FAR left end of Mustache Wall, you'll walk right past it as you follow the trail into the canyon.

Protection

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap

Photos

AWinters
NH
 
AWinters   NH  
 
dislocated my right shoulder on the lieback Oct 7, 2010
Pretty in your face for 10c! Feb 12, 2011
Tyler Quesnel
Eliot
 
Tyler Quesnel   Eliot
 
Solid 10c... some of those clips are hard to make off the lieback. Thin thin fingers and slick feet. Sep 24, 2011
213blc
THA WEST COAST
  5.10c
213blc   THA WEST COAST
  5.10c
Sssssslick! I was flyin' before I knew it! The left foot requires great focus to stick :) Jun 12, 2012
Morgan Nutting
Bishop, CA
  5.10d
Morgan Nutting   Bishop, CA
  5.10d
Definitely harder than I thought. Jul 2, 2012
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
5.10c
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
5.10c
Lots of fun! Jul 16, 2013
Sandbag. more like 10d/11a and be prepared to get your leg caught behind the rope. Everybody does! Great route just a little burly for 10c. Apr 28, 2014
Bolts on the lie-back were recently moved making the clips more reasonable and the likelihood of getting your leg behind the rope less. Hopefully better now. Jun 2, 2014
Ryan Watts
Bishop, CA
  5.10c
Ryan Watts   Bishop, CA
  5.10c
Just did this for the first time today. Can't speak to where the old bolts were but the clips from the new location all seemed pretty reasonable. Still got the rope behind my leg a few times but that's probably just me being dumb. Jul 4, 2014
Austin Archer
Bishop, Ca.
 
Austin Archer   Bishop, Ca.
 
Don't hesitate to try what I like to call the "B-Gizzle-Bomb." Continue up past the B-Gizzle anchor leading into the upper portion of the classic route, "Fire Bomb." A bolted 5.11 crux sequence is encountered above the B-Gizzle anchor and then onto moderate crack climbing to the anchor. Several more QD's and a singles rack of cams to #3 Camalot should do ya. 70 METER ROPE TO LOWER OFF. Sep 5, 2014
Yah, the Gizz Bomb, very nice! Stout clip at the crux, 11c for me compared to the other 11bs on the wall. A med stopper or 2 would have been nice. Sep 10, 2014
Coco Boyle
San Diego, CA
Coco Boyle   San Diego, CA
Burly. Good route, thin hands and slick feet, but stout for a 10. Partner fell during the crux on the lieback and caught leg behind rope and flipped. Jan 7, 2018
Tim Iwako
Davis, CA
  5.11a
Tim Iwako   Davis, CA
  5.11a
Thin and fun. Gives you an idea of what 5.10+ lieback is all about Jul 13, 2018
Cody Kaemmerlen
Encinitas, CA
 
Cody Kaemmerlen   Encinitas, CA
 
Solid for the grade. Firing into the first couple moves of the lieback came as a challenge. Super fun. Slick feet. Oct 27, 2018