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Routes in Mustache Wall

Air Toil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Aromatic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
B-Gizzle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Becky Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Blast Furnace S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boldly Departed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Coven (Seriously Though) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cuss Terr's Last Stand S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dakota Street Bypass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Dog Dare S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fire Bomb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flame Thrower S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fu Manchu S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gala Tumble S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gimpenator S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grindulator S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Megaplex, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mr. Ridiculous S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mustache Ride S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Not The Wheat S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Notorious B.E.G., The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phenomena S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Power Of Union S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Psycho Sexy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Remington Electric, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Secret Stash left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Secret Stash right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shattered Glass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidecar T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slippery Slope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stone Cold Fusion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supergrinder S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toiler, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Window Shopper S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 200 ft
FA: Darrell Hensel, 2012
Page Views: 1,461 total, 25/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Mar 4, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is an added value link up of Window Shopper with the second pitch of Supergrinder. Do Window Shopper. At the anchor make a couple of moves (crux) to gain the patina up and right. Climb past 3 bolts to join the second pitch of Supergrinder at it's second bolt.

With an 80m rope it is possible to lower to the Shopper anchor. Not sure about a 70m. A 70m works getting back to the Grinder anchor. Or two rapps, or two ropes. An 80m will also reach to within a few feet of the ground (easy downclimb) as a straight shot rapp. Endless options for getting off.

Protection

21 bolts. The use of a couple of full length runners to straighten the rope run is helpful. Skipping or back cleaning some of the bolts also helps, particularly on Window Shopper (the 2nd, left most bolt for sure.)

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Josh Janes    
 
An amazing piece of climbing: 5 out of 4 stars. Jul 20, 2015
Phil Esra  
 
Doh, sorry, yes, right, not left. I'll edit the original post.

Yeah, Supergrinder p2 2nd bolt is a few inches above a knobby rail/dike extrusion. If you're coming up Supergrinder, the move is sort of left traversing (at least the way I've done it). But you can get to it from directly below if you're coming up Shattered Glass, which is what I did--it felt hard. Before committing to doing it that way on Shattered Glass, I first traversed right, in the vicinity of the 1st bolt on Supergrinder. That would have put me on Supergrinder BEFORE getting to that 2nd bolt, and would have made the move to that 2nd bolt easier. Based on Vlad's comment (join Supergrinder AFTER its crux), I assumed this was off route. But maybe I was overthinking it! (12a is a proud tick for me, so I was sweating all the details...)

Agreed, plenty of ways to deal with the rope drag, as long as you're conscious of it.

But anyway, this route takes all of Window Shopper and combines it with most of the best parts of Supergrinder, and everyone should get on it ASAP because of the cumulative radness. Apr 25, 2015
Escaping out left? Did you mean out right, and onto Supergrinder earlier? Regardless, defining a natural option as something off-route is a bit ridiculous so I'm not inclined to go there. But to answer the question, going straight up results in a couple more independent moves. At that point, people should do what they want since the line is going into SG anyway. But I think it would miss a few good moves that add to the overall quality of the pitch if SG was joined earlier.

I used two full length runners, one on the rightmost WS bolt, and one on the first bolt after joining SG. That seemed to work fine as well. But then I did a few things like back-cleaning the 2nd WS bolt, and skipping others. Many ways to skin the rope drag cat. But it would be unpleasant if everything was clipped without at least some full length runners. Apr 22, 2015
Phil Esra  
 
So much good climbing! At 5'6", the move off the anchor was cruxy, but I had almost as much trouble with the final move to the Supergrinder clipping rail. Spent more than an hour on a redpoint--lots of stances for hanging out and nervously contemplating beta, all the way through the crux of Supergrinder! (I assume escaping out [RIGHT] and therefore doing the 10d Supergrinder move to that 2nd Supergrinder bolt, is off route.)

Used 4 shoulder slings on Window Shopper to reduce drag [...]

[EDITED to correct beta and delete mind-numbing protection micro-beta weenie spray]. Apr 21, 2015
Glad you liked it. I'm just happy its being done, and hope people keep providing feedback so an accurate rating can fall out of consensus. Aug 26, 2014
Austin Archer
Bishop, Ca.
  5.11d
Austin Archer   Bishop, Ca.
  5.11d
An incredible link between two already great routes. It's a little commiting climbing through the crux and looking down at the window shopper anchor below you. There are several good rests after the crux, even a great no hands rest before some edgy business merging into the second pitch of supergrinder. This is why I feel the .11d rating is more appropriate. Thanks for putting it up! Aug 25, 2014
Vlad S
  5.12a
Vlad S  
  5.12a
I didn't figure it out the first time around, but after getting some beta thought the climb is awesome! The move off the intermediate anchor is a huge reach (I was barely able to do it at 5'8") to a very positive awesome crimp. After a few more cool moves you merge into the supergrinder just after its crux and keep going for 50 m of awesomeness! 70 m rope will just BARELY get you down to the shopper anchor - my belayer had inches of rope left, so maybe don't count on it or tie a knot?! Sep 3, 2013