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Routes in Mustache Wall

Air Toil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Aromatic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
B-Gizzle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Becky Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Blast Furnace S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boldly Departed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Coven (Seriously Though) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cuss Terr's Last Stand S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dakota Street Bypass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Dog Dare S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fire Bomb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flame Thrower S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fu Manchu S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gala Tumble S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gimpenator S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grindulator S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Megaplex, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mr. Ridiculous S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mustache Ride S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Not The Wheat S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Notorious B.E.G., The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phenomena S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Power Of Union S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Psycho Sexy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Remington Electric, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Secret Stash left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Secret Stash right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shattered Glass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidecar T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slippery Slope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stone Cold Fusion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supergrinder S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toiler, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Window Shopper S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: Shadow Ayala
Page Views: 1,712 total, 19/month
Shared By: Shadow Ayala on Jul 8, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

There are two roofs and a steep ending on this beast. Get to the first roof without falling on the tricky opening and crank your way through jugs to a huge broken sloper move. Pull over onto the face and face the music. Make an 'in your face' clip and recover, you have a long way to go. Ditch one crack after another until you reach the second roof. This section is unreal fun. Get jiggy with the crack and make a blind move to another juggy sloper. Flag your way around "the point" and onto the amazingly exposed face. Classic edgy face climbing leads you to a tricky crack swapping section. When things blank out near the top, get ready for the finale. Perfect little edges through a gently overhanging face amazes you as you float over the last steep section and into one last surprise. Dont fall at the top! One of the best on the wall.

Location

right of 'Flame Thrower'.

Protection

16 bolts, two are fixed.
fixe chain anchor.
-there is now a mid anchor below the second roof, so it is easy to clean and can be climbed with one rope.

Photos

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I'm sorry, but I have to point out how exceptionally trenchant, and unabashedly funny Vic's comments are regarding the SoCal bouldering population. Word.

I know this information is completely unnecessary, so whoever administers this site can feel free to delete my comment. My feelings won't be hurt. Aug 13, 2010
Victor Lawson
Bishop, CA
Victor Lawson   Bishop, CA
Despite the rad bro-brahness oozing from Dr. Ayala's route description, do not be fooled. This route is way cooler than any So-Cal boulderer's tribal armband tattoo. Send this rig and you get a gold star! Jul 9, 2010