Psycho Sexy
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
| Type: | Sport, 130 ft (39 m) |
| GPS: | 37.3836, -118.67689 |
| FA: | Shadow Ayala |
| Page Views: | 3,024 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Shadow Ayala on Jul 8, 2010 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
There are two roofs and a steep ending on this beast. Get to the first roof without falling on the tricky opening and crank your way through jugs to a huge broken sloper move. Pull over onto the face and face the music. Make an 'in your face' clip and recover, you have a long way to go. Ditch one crack after another until you reach the second roof. This section is unreal fun. Get jiggy with the crack and make a blind move to another juggy sloper. Flag your way around "the point" and onto the amazingly exposed face. Classic edgy face climbing leads you to a tricky crack swapping section. When things blank out near the top, get ready for the finale. Perfect little edges through a gently overhanging face amazes you as you float over the last steep section and into one last surprise. Dont fall at the top! One of the best on the wall.



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