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Routes in Mustache Wall

Air Toil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Aromatic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
B-Gizzle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Becky Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Blast Furnace S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boldly Departed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Coven (Seriously Though) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crazy Course S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cuss Terr's Last Stand S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dakota Street Bypass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double D ConFusion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double Dog Dare S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fire Bomb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flame Thrower S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fu Manchu S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gala Tumble S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gimpenator S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gizzle Bomb T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Grindulator S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
High n Dry S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Megaplex, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mr. Ridiculous S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mustache Ride S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Not The Wheat S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Notorious B.E.G., The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phenomena S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Power Of Union S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Psycho Sexy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Remington Electric, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Secret Stash left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Secret Stash right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shattered Glass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidecar T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slippery Slope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stone Cold Fusion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supergrinder S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toiler, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Window Shopper S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ziegler, TD
Page Views: 300 total · 17/month
Shared By: Rick Ziegler on May 24, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

P1: Climb the initial bolts of "Gimpenator" until about even with the anchors of B-Gizzle. Traverse right (gear) and then up corner to a bolted anchor. Secret Stash starts from this bolted anchor.
P2: Up and left through lay back and stemming moves. Clip a bolt and continue up right facing lay back corner to anchor.

Protection

Gear to 3". Lower off to P1 anchor. Rappel from there to ground.

Photos

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Cave Man McElroy   auburn
this route has a death block about the size of my chest, which really isnt that big. it's on the very last lieback section of the second pitch well after the bolt. The section allows the climber to easily use the widecrack on the left wall as a chimney aid making the section go at like 5.5, however there is a loose ass block right at the top and its ready to get pulled... definitely a chance of hitting the belayer and big enough to smash brains and shatter bones and crush dreams. I should have drawn a big white X, but i didnt because i was smoked out. I hand palm smashed it back into place, but i wouldn't recommend yarding on it. Great little route though. Two thumbs up. Jan 1, 2018
Rick Ziegler
  5.9
Rick Ziegler  
  5.9
The loose block near the top was removed today. Aug 21, 2018

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