Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Brian Ketron, Tai Devore and Trevor Hobbs
Page Views: 1,121 total · 19/month
Shared By: Vlad S on May 27, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

One of the best routes on the wall in terms of richness of movement and deserves a lot more traffic than it gets. There is almost no patina on this side of the wall and the climbing is on flakes and in between cracks and seams on grey rock. There is probably no single move harder than 11c, but except for a short section in the middle it feels like you are at the crux almost for the whole duration of the route. The bolts are all very close together, so it's very well protected.

Location

Starts left of Remington Electric a tier below the routes in the middle of Mustache wall. It is easily identifiable by 4 closely-spaced bolts in grey rock (no patina) going straight up to a small roof with a jug/flake in it.

Protection

14 bolts to a two-bolt mussy hook anchor. 60 m rope will get you down.

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Short Fall Sean
Flagstaff, AZ
Short Fall Sean   Flagstaff, AZ
Cool route, definitely a rich variety of movement and the undercling traverse section is really neat.

However, I disagree with the description that there is no move harder than 11c but the route is sustained. While it was a fairly sustained route (and burlier than most mustache wall routes), I found there to be a truly standout crux around the tenth bolt where you're moving left and up into a wide, flaring crack. I did all the other moves on the first try, but that section totally shut me down. Made me wonder if maybe a hold had broken in there, especially since the rock was still cleaning up in that section. Oct 5, 2015
Choncho
  5.11d
Choncho  
  5.11d
Love this route. Best on the wall. Jul 18, 2016
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
  5.12a
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
  5.12a
Best 11d on the wall. Sustained and memorable! Jul 24, 2017